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A different kind of Moly coated question...

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5 comments

  • JustC
    Eric,..the balistic silver tips are not moly coated,..they are coated with "lubalox" a proprietary coating belonging to winchester. It is to my experience,..a thicker coating and much different than moly. The properties could very well be diferent,..you may want to call winchester directly or nosler and ask. How did you get them to shoot? I have had absolutely no luck with them in a vairiety of calibers. I have however heard that is takes quite a few fouling shots to settle them down,..and I usually start with a perfectly clean bore,..so maybe that has something to do with it.

    As far as a load,..usually it takes more powder to push the moly bullets at any given velocity,..and when switching to non-coated pills,..you would be well served to back off the powder and work back to the same velocity. Maybe nosler can help with this as well,..since they also produce the load manuals for those bullets.

    why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
    Got Balistics?
    0
  • Permanently deleted user
    quote:Originally posted by JustC
    Eric,..the balistic silver tips are not moly coated,..they are coated with "lubalox" a proprietary coating belonging to winchester. It is to my experience,..a thicker coating and much different than moly. The properties could very well be diferent,..you may want to call winchester directly or nosler and ask. How did you get them to shoot? I have had absolutely no luck with them in a vairiety of calibers. I have however heard that is takes quite a few fouling shots to settle them down,..and I usually start with a perfectly clean bore,..so maybe that has something to do with it.

    As far as a load,..usually it takes more powder to push the moly bullets at any given velocity,..and when switching to non-coated pills,..you would be well served to back off the powder and work back to the same velocity. Maybe nosler can help with this as well,..since they also produce the load manuals for those bullets.

    why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
    Got Balistics?


    Maybe it's this particular rifle.?.?[:)] This is the only rifle that I shoot them in...and they shoot very well. It was an experiment more than anything else. I am glad to get your feedback though b/c I was considering using them for some other calibers, and now I'm not so sure I want to...I have yet to try to clean the barrel back down to bare steel, and I don't know how hard that is going to be.[:)] I was under the impression that this "lubalox" was just Wichester's version of the Moly coating.?.? I did not know it was different all together. Thanks for the feedback.

    Eric

    All American Arms Company

    Veteran Owned and Operated
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  • intercessor
    I think that I would back off the load just like you would any new load, about 10%. The same powder load will push a moly bullet at a lower velocty and less pressure than an uncoated bullet. If you are at max with a coated bullet, you will probably be too hot with a regular bullet. Just my opinion. A phone call to Nosler could save you some grief.
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  • temblor
    The load data is the same for both type bullets of the same weight in Nosler manuals. I have found that when switching it is best to clean the barrel and start new with the plain Ballistic tips, however I have found both types to be accurate. In good smooth barrels it probably doesn't matter about gettig the bore coated with the lubalox, but in rifles with a rough bores it fills in the rough spots and shoots better for awhile until it's to dirty to shoot well. Then you have start over again after cleaning the barrel. -- I would just load the same load that has been shooting well for you, clean the barrel, shoot one fouling shot, shoot one at a target at 100yds to check the zero and adjust if needed, and then go shoot whatever you need to shoot. -- Good Luck.........[8D]
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  • JustC
    Eric,..there are articles stating the theory of adding some sort of wax to moly makes them more accurate or easier to clean (can't really remember). I beleive that the lubalox is some sort of derivation of that. If you notice in their adds,..they state the siler tip BT's are lubalox coated while the fail safe and partition are moly coated. There is some sort of difference in the coating.

    I have been told it takes them 5-20 shots to settle in,..so that may be the key. I have fired 3-5 and just given up on my 7mm mag, 220 swift, and a friends 300win mag. We may not have given them the time to they deserved. If you start from a clean bore,...and foul them in correctly,..they may shoot very well. This may well deserve a more scientific approach to determine if this is the case.

    why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
    Got Balistics?
    0

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