fire protection
I have a 17 cf Sentry safe that is not fire resistant. My house is too small to get anything bigger and my stairway probably would crumble trying to get anything heavier down in the basement.
I'd like to see if I could rig up something to incorporate so type of protection for it. What do you think about building a layer of 5/8" drywall (the kind you use in garages) around the outside of it? Do you think this would be worthwhile or a waste of time? I can't really put anything on the inside as it would cut down too much on space.
Also, does anyone make any kind of fire resistant gun-sleeves that I could put my guns into when they are in the safe?
GL
I'd like to see if I could rig up something to incorporate so type of protection for it. What do you think about building a layer of 5/8" drywall (the kind you use in garages) around the outside of it? Do you think this would be worthwhile or a waste of time? I can't really put anything on the inside as it would cut down too much on space.
Also, does anyone make any kind of fire resistant gun-sleeves that I could put my guns into when they are in the safe?
GL
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I have often thought that a person could install a single fire sprinkler over their safe. It could be installed on your incoming water line. Your water probably won't be shut off until after the fire is out. You are right about the sheet rock, as that's all it is , fireproofing material. Gypsum.
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Old? First you forget names; then you forget faces; then you forget to pull your zipper up; then you forget to pull your zipper down.0 -
I don't think that it's worth fooling with.
I also keep my non-fire resistent safe in the basement; I think that with the safe against an outer wall to protect it from floor collapse, that is the best place in the house to keep it. (Do not put it directly on the floor, as the bottom will rust.) House fires burn UP, & the heat tends to rise; while not impossible, it's unlikely that there will be enough build-up of heat in the basement to damage your guns in an uninsulated safe.
I figure that there is a certain element of risk in everything. But, if you are still worried, a more practical alternative might be a sprinkler system.
Neal0 -
Most fire proof safes are only good to 1200F. Most house fires burn at over 2500F. The safest thing would be have a contractor split fire bricks & enclose as much of the safe as you can with a heat pad {that wood stoves use between wall & stove } placed between brick & the safe itself, you can also cut this material & cover the door of the safe. If you go to this trouble be sure & contact your insurance Co. as it will help on your gun insurance. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by GreenLantern
Also, does anyone make any kind of fire resistant gun-sleeves that I could put my guns into when they are in the safe?
GL
Be careful about storing your guns in cases or sleeves. They may likely rust. There are some silicone impregnated sleeves/socks (not fireproof) that will prevent rusting (in theory), but I wouldn't try it long term.
I don't know how air-tight your safe is, or how often you are in it, but I would suggest looking into a heat-rod to prevent any condensation from occurring...and consequently some potential rust issues. The brand I use is called "Eliminator" and they are made by "Rantec."
There are several different brands of these available that are all about the same. They are just a tube about 3/4" dia. by ~16" long with a resistive heating element in them, and a long cord to plug into a 110 vac outlet. They do not get very hot. You can hold them somewhat comfortably when they are on. I think I have seen them for ~$20 or so.
You will of course need a hole big enough to install the cord cap or heat-tube through your safe. Insulate around the hole afterwards if it concerns you.
Drywall will help of course. I wonder how you would do it and have you door open w/o a hassle? You would almost need to build an enclosure around it (i.e., a closet) and insulate the inside of the door, or use a fireproof door. Attaching drywall directly to the outside of the safe would be unsightly, and the accessibility would be compromised I would think depending on how you covered the safe door? If you build a closet, I would double-up and use two layers of drywall. Its cheap and easy to do while you are at it. A closet would be cool! Build it big enough for the safe and some other items you want to lock up or protect from a fire.
As far as documents go; a fireman friend told me the freezer compartment, or a deep-freeze is excellant fire-protection. Put your papers in a freezer bag and they are good. He said the inside of the freezers have usually remained intact regardless of how bad the fire was.
A sprinkler sounds like a good idea as long as it is done right, with quality parts, and out of the way enough so it isn't bumped. Having had a hot water heater spring a leak in a condo I had while I was at work once concerns me some with that idea. The drain will catch the flood, but its a mess never-the-less!
The odds are you won't need any of it hopefully. Insurance against loss is a gamble. I understand your concern! I just spent a considerable sum this week on some high-end locks and cables for some items in my garage and out-building. I have an ADT security system, but in the event a bold burglar (aren't they all?) hit me; they could snatch and run with some things before the police arrived.
Good Luck0 -
Smoke detectors save lives and guns ,most are rated at 1200degrees for one hour ,some models 1800 ,hopefully a fire dept can get it out in a hour if they are close by ,but before you go bricking it in or wrapping it in gypsum you should think about spontaneous combustion ,it is what damages the inside of most safes
If you can't fit a fire proof safe ,buy some insurance ,at most put five gallons of water above it sealed in a plastic container ,if fire is present it will melt the container soaking your safe ,if you choose to wrap it ,one crack cannot be left open ,so you must wrap the door as well or it is no use in doing it at all
yep its me ,same one for 4 years now0 -
GreenLantern on and off since 75 Iv'e been working in the fire protection field. Its simple to install and now there is even plastic pipe rated for this instilation one sprinkler head rated at 165 and a FM/UL approved check valve and your in business. You may want to do your house it will lower you insurance a bunch. If you are going to follow this through and need help drop me a Email.
psalms 160 -
I installed about 7 sprinkler heads in my basement using copper pipe and soldered joints with a thread adapter for the sprinkler heads.I found some 165deg heads and used them.It is plumbed with copper 3/4" pipe tied directly into the main line.The solder joints and pipe will never (MELT in a fire) and if you ever tried to solder a pipe joint with a little bit of water in it you will know what i mean!. The sprinkler heads will blow at 165deg and spray water everywhere. Total cost was about $75.00 with the used sprinkler heads.
It's All Crapola!!!0 -
Here are some basic thoughts that you have to contend with:
1. Some gun owners are reluctant to insure their firearms. Be it paranoia or well founded belief that an itemized inventory could become public knowledge. Even if you are covered be prepared for an insurance battle over value once you've sustained the loss. Remember a disclosed list to your insured with a "replacement value" rider is necessary if you want to be fully covered. Be prepared to pay for this rider.
2. Most safes that are exposed to the temperatures high enough to defeat even moderate fire protection usually end up in the lowest part of the structure (i.e. basement) setting in three feet of smoke saturated water. Immediate retrieval is usually governed by the willingness of the local fire department. In most cases, and for your safety count on 72 hours. Fireproof does not mean water tight. You'll probably not want the remnants secured in your safe after a submerged fire. Insurance starts to look like a better option at this point.
3. Safes are great. Even a cheap safe keeps kids, and wives out. The most basic safe is a great deterrent, that will defeat most roving thieves. Don't count on that double key lock tin box to defeat a return visit. (The return visit happens more often than you think . . . remember you've consolidated your valuables, and the temptation to return is overwhelming. The odds of a second break in are not like a lightning strike.)
4. Don't expect loaded clips, or reloading powder to survive the fire. Firearms that would have survived a fire are often damaged because of this fact. Often it is physically impossible to separate the safe from ammo, and reloading supplies. Locked cabinets for ammo and powder are great, but I'd venture that most who have safes have secured everything in a single room behind a locked door. You've already spent hard earned money on a safe, now you need to either buy another to safe protect the combustibles, or totally separate these items from your gun safe. When you have your very own fire, don't count on the fire department to risk life and limb when your reloads start going off. Count on extra water, and extra time before your allowed to start salvaging.
5. So what's the answer? Buy the best safe you can afford. At minimum spend as much as you would on your best scoped rifle. A safe that offers fire protection is better; but money spent on phone wired alarms, and smoke detectors would be a wise/r investment. Bolt the safe securely to a concrete slab (i.e., the garage floor, or separate structure). You complicate your options if you reload, and have to store supplies. If you have a single gun safe/reloading room in your basement, you have compounded your problem. For most a garage safe, allows you to move your firearms from the safe to the vehicle to the field in privacy. A safe is an excellent theft deterrent, located properly it can also provide fire loss in most instances.
That's the most I've ever said on this forum! IMHO based on personal experience and observation.0 -
Try this stuff:
http://www.dragonboard.us/pages/1/index.htm0 -
Wow, you guys have given me some ideas that I'd never thought of before. So, I already have the golden rod and the silica gel or what ever it is, so inside I'm pretty safe. I check my guns frequently so rust isn't an issue.
So I ran the sprinkler idea past my father - in - law since he's a professional plumber. He thought it was brilliant and I think he was kind of surprised that he'd never thought of it before. So next time he's out here we're going to take a serious look at it. Biggest issue will be getting the piping into the room.
Next, I have the safe off the concrete floor but will probably move it up another inch or two incase of standing water should a fire occur and the fire dept hoses the place down.
Then, I'm thinking of some type of fire-resistant lining around the sides, back, and top, leaving the door open for easy access.
L8R, GL.
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Sometimes, when someone is talking to me, my mind drifts off and I
start thinking about guns I'd like to own.0
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