cleaning brushes
Just read one of the other posts about cleaning a dirty bore with a bronze brush.
Is there any benefit or liability with using stainless brushes for bore cleaning? Using the correct caliber brush of course.
Is there any benefit or liability with using stainless brushes for bore cleaning? Using the correct caliber brush of course.
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While stainless brushes are softer than barrel steel, there seems little to be gained by using them, and the possibility of damage to the barrel would seem to make avoiding them common sense. But then again I only rarely use bronze brushes, as I find nylon brushes do the job pretty well when I use blue wonder or Butch's Bore Shine. 0 -
He Dog,
Seems to me that bronze brushes will wear one one side more than the other, but maybe thats just me . Basisly I'm cheap, trying to get as mush as I can from nothing[:I]
Haven't tried nylon. Any help I can get is appreciated. I need all I can get[^]0 -
I do not follow how a bronze bush would wear one side more than the other. We are talking about bore brushes, right? 0 -
Stick with the bronze. Much easier on the barrel especially if you shot alot and clean alot. Stay Safe. . . . . . . . 0 -
He Dog
I fire quite a bit of cast lead through my revolvers, my own fault, I do sometimes get a little agressive cleaning the lead build-up on the outside of the cylinder walls with a brush. Tend to push to one side more than the other. Bronze brushes will flatten one one side as stainless won't. I know, I know, I should change my load, but it's one that workes for me with the lead bullets that I fire.0 -
NEVER use stainless brushes as they WILL leave marks on the bore surface. Bronze is OK,..but the Nylon brushes seem to stay stiff longer and wear less. I recycle my bronze brushes by starting them at 30cal and then taking them down to 7mm and then to 6.5mm etc[:)] As for cleaning a rifle bore,..very little need for a brush with Wipe-out bore foam. A quality bore guide as well as a coated rod make cleaning less intrusive to the bore as well. 0 -
Nobody mentioned a jag... is that Taboo ?
I've used a stainless brush (hoop endings) a couple of times to help remove lead from a hog-leg. My fault it got that way, but I used the stainless brush a few times over the 20 years I've had that one..It still shoots as well as I can.
I did what Cornflk did on the cylinder face once or twice, depending on whose gun it was, and it didn't hurt anything but the brush. I then took steps to minimize that 'fouling' and switched to those green abrasive scrubbers by the sink when needed. You can still do some damage with them though...best to soak that face well first.
I only started using nylon brushes for the 'real' cleaning jobs a few years back, but they work better than I thought...I should have tried them sooner. So, if ya aint tried em, don't knock em.
But for most of my pieces that have smooth rifled bores, a soak with a good solvent and a few passes with patches on the proper jag and I'm done. For the last solvent patch(s) I'll use a plastic jag to avoid the 'false green' coming from the jag. I may go all plastic on my jags, except the plastic ones will break at the threading eventually.
So ... any reason a jag was not mentioned ?
If we do not hang together,
We will most certainly hang separately.0 -
a jag is brass,..so it will yield to the barrel steel. The Steel brush will not yield to a steel barrel. And the jag usually has a patch wrapped around it to further protect the bore as it passes.
in a pistol or a 30-30 or something like that,..I can't ever see a steel brush making a difference, but in a smoothly finished bore chambered for a fast caliber,..I can see the resulting scratches increasing fouling at the very least. I don't even see them for sale most any place anymore,..so it makes the decision process easy[:D]
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
Got Balistics?0
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