Ruger #1 Accurizer
Has any one out here ever used a Hicks #1 Accurizer on a #1 Ruger with any success ?
I have a 338WM that could use a little bit of help.
I can't seem to get it down below 2 inches at a 100 yards using 200 gr Ballistic Tips, and they seem to do the best of all.
Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.
I have a 338WM that could use a little bit of help.
I can't seem to get it down below 2 inches at a 100 yards using 200 gr Ballistic Tips, and they seem to do the best of all.
Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.
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not trying to be an ass, but anything you want to shoot with a .338wm is bigger than 2 moa at any range within reason (old gun writer used to say anything within minet of moose was good enought). I've got a new m-70 win. that realy likes the 200 bt (3 shots, 3 elk), but I had to do some serious load development to get it to shoot ok (78.5 gns of RL-19, rem 9 1/2 m primers in r-p nickel cases, 3150 fps, 11 sd, bty) 0 -
I haven't used one myself because I've always been able to get my No. 1's to shoot well with my bedding method but a friend of my recently installed one and is very happy with it. He's also a top flight Gunsmith and he wanted to check them out before he could recommend them to his customers. Something else that sounds strange but I have only ever had one rifle out of 20 or so I have that shot Ballistic tips better than other bullets I tried. 0 -
silly question, but what is a Hicks #1 Accurizer[?] 0 -
From Brownells catalog:
Fine Tune The Barrel For Consistent Accuracy
Stabilizes the barrel to prevent point of impact shift as barrel heats up. Steel bedding block attaches to receiver extension and gives you an adjustable tensioning screw to regulate barrel movement. Only minor inletting of the forearm required.
SPECS: Steel, blue finish. 1.28" (3.2cm) long, .74" (18.9mm) wide, .51" (13.2mm) high. Includes instructions.
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Before you go to all that trouble and expense, try working with the forearm a little. Over the years, I've had several customers tell me that they had accuracy problems with the No. 1s and corrected them by working with the forearm. More specifically, they all told me that they took off the forearm and then used a torque wrench to reattach it. Unfortunatley, I don't remember the setting they used, but I do recall that it was much less than they had originally used. a couple of them also told me that they got the idea from the internet. I also remember one of them telling me that he was looking around the internet and found a way to free float the barrel or at least keep the forearm from pressing on the barrel. Once again, unfortunately, I don't know where to tell you to start looking. Best of luck. Let us know what you decide to do and what the results are. -- Steve 0 -
In the past I have installed set screws in the front of the forearm hangers to bear against the barrel. I used a thin aluminum piece contoured to the barrel on one side and flat on the other for the screw to bear against without marring the barrel. Locate the screw hole between the forearm hanger screw and the hammer spring strut, making sure that the hammer spring strut clears the set screw as the action is cocked. This area of the hanger is inclined and the easiest way to get a hole in straight is to use a 1/8" end mill to open the hammer strut slot and to create a flat bottom to start a drill. any size set screw from 4-40, 5-40 or 6-32 will work. The worst part is tapping the hanger, Rugers are tough! A new sharp tap is a big advantage. The screw can be adjusted to just slightly spring the hanger which has the effect of freeing the forearm from barrel contact.
Jim Rehm0
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