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Ruger dudes. HELP!!

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12 comments

  • CS8161
    Are you sure of the caliber? Are you trying factory ammo? Is there something stuck in the barrel?
    If you are using the correct caliber, factory ammo and the bore is not obstructed and the bolt will still not close, take it to a gunsmith or send it back to Ruger. I believe that all Ruger bolts have some hand engraving on them natching them to the rifle.

    Chris8161
    Admit nothing, deny everything, demand proof!
    stooges.jpg[IMG][/img][IMG][/img]springer.jpg
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  • BOBBYWINS
    I've tryed 2 different brands of ammo,both factory.One of the boxes came with the gun.

    Bore is clear and clean as a whistle.

    BW

    IT'S WHAT PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT THEMSELVES THAT MAKES THEM AFRAID.
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  • 41 nut
    Pull the bolt out. Slip a cartridge rim under the extractor. Put the bolt back into gun carefully so cartridg stays in place. Will the bolt close completely now?? If so there is a problem with the extractor - it is not sliding up and over the ctg. In which case the face of the extractor will need to be reshaped. I've seen this in Ruger rifles that someone has replaced the extractor in several times.
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  • JustC
    a controlled round feed action such as this needs to be fed from the magazine. If the extractor is especially stiff, it may not "snap" over the cartridge rim when push fed into the chamber. Notice that when it is fed from the magazine, if you watch closely you will see the rim nicely slide in behind the extractor. See if feeding from the magazine makes the problem dissappear.

    if not,..try looking in the neck of the chamber for a peice of brass left in there from a torn case.

    You can also color the whole round with a black majic marker and try to get the bolt to close. Smack it a bit hard, a few times, and then when you remove it,..the black will be taken off or scarred at the area the case is making contact with something.



    why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
    Got Balistics?
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  • peabo
    Had the same problem once. I found that the ejector had been installed in the bolt backwares. The ejector on this gun, a Mossberg RM-7, is longer on one end than the other(from the groove where the retaining pin goes through). Remove the bolt and push the ejector into the face of the bolt. It should go in to be at least flush with the bolt face or below. It is a matter of either being in backwards or too long. If too long just grind off excess until it is below the face of the bolt.
    It may even be stuck. Also look at the brass of the case you try to chamber. If this is the problem, you can see that the case is turning in the chamber since it is being held tight by the ejector into the chamber. Also don't know how the ruger bolt is made or position of the ejector in the ruger rifles. May not be mounted or travel with the bolt.
    Just an idea since I had the same problem.

    Believe nothing you hear and only half of what you see !!
    NRA Life Member
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  • BOBBYWINS
    [:I][:I][:I][:I][:I]
    [:I][:I][:I][:I][:I]

    Boy,is my face red!!

    I think JustC nailed it.

    (The controlled feed thing.)

    In the back of my mind I seemed to remember having the same problem(or should I say NON-problem.)with one several years ago.Then it dawned on me.It was the Mod 77 MkII I had!!!

    I haven't gotten to the house yet to try it,but I'd bet that's it.

    Thanks guys!!

    We were fixin' to ship it off to Ruger.

    BW

    IT'S WHAT PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT THEMSELVES THAT MAKES THEM AFRAID.
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  • aglore
    The Model 77 Tang Safety version is not a controlled round feed firearm. The extractor is designed to slip over the cartridge rim when closing the bolt.

    AlleninAlaska
    Delta Firearms & Supplies
    http://www.galleryofguns.com

    aglore@gci.net
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  • JustC
    well,..I may have been ahead of myself[B)] If in fact the current problem rifle is the tang safety, then it is more akin to the pushfeed and my advice was for trouble shooting the MKII as Allen pointed out.

    If in fact the problem rifle is the pushfeed then my first attempt at locating the issue would be to look at the spring loaded ejector. If brass shavings or other hard contaminants have flowed into the ejector opening around the ejector, that could cause it to become stuck, and not compress against the casehead as the bolt is rotated into battery. Try sitting it straight up and applying some very light oil such as Kroil or PB blaster (creeping oils) and let it sit. Then come back and give it a few light taps with say a brass punch or something plastic as a buffer so as not to scar the boltface while giving these "love taps" Then after you can tell it moves freely (under a fair amount of spring tension of course) then retry chambering a round. if that is it,..then have the bolt disassembled and cleaned very well with solvents and denstist picks.

    If the ejector is already free and unincumbered, then I would look to the black marker and case trick again. If the case gets stuck, don't worry, insert a dowel rod made of wood in the muzzle, and give it a few light taps and the case and bolt will come free since they did not rotate into the locked position. The marks should give an idea of the problem.

    You don't have to look for locking lug recess obstructions since the bolt closes freely with no round inserted.

    let us know what you find.

    why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
    Got Balistics?
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  • BOBBYWINS
    Well,
    I tryed it last night when I got home.Loaded a couple of rounds into the magazine and it still didn't work.[:(]

    I'll look at it some more today sometimes and do as you suggested,JustC.

    Thanks,
    BW

    IT'S WHAT PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT THEMSELVES THAT MAKES THEM AFRAID.
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  • aglore
    Sounds to me like the extractor needs to be tweeked a bit. Try the method indicated above by pulling the bolt and slipping a cartridge under the extractor and then carefully feed it into the chamber and see if the bolt will close. Even the Ruger MkII will feed and seat a cartridge without having to load the magazine. The good thing about the Ruger extractor is that it is designed to snap over the cartridge rim in the older tang safety versions and the MkII versions.

    AlleninAlaska
    Delta Firearms & Supplies
    http://www.galleryofguns.com

    aglore@gci.net
    0
  • JustC
    my Mk II will snap over the rim,..but increases runout while bending the case in the chamber and does show a difference even at 100yds. I never though I would see it,..but I have proven it to myself more than once with this same rifle and load. I have gone to simply feeding them from the magazine in a controlled feed. NOT to say that mine may not be different in some tolerance and Aglore's assessment is the norm. I have only had 1 ruger MK II, so I am not working off of a scientific data set.

    why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
    Got Balistics?
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  • sandwarrior
    When you go to chamber a round how far back is the bolt? Just hoping this didn't get stamped 25-06 when it is a .257. And, verify these are new rounds to new tolerances for the .25-06?

    We have the second amendment so that all the rest are secure....UNK>
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