.38 spl in .357 reloading question
I was thinking of taking up reloading, and I figured that 38/357 was a good place to start for this. Two questions:
If you're going to shoot practice 38s in your .357 revolver do you get an accuracy advantage by loading to a slightly longer over all length?
Alternatively, is it better to load .38-like rounds in .357 cases?
If you're going to shoot practice 38s in your .357 revolver do you get an accuracy advantage by loading to a slightly longer over all length?
Alternatively, is it better to load .38-like rounds in .357 cases?
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I never noticed a difference in accuracy between loading .38s long vs. regular overall length.
I have noticed a difference between lightly loaded .38s and equivalent loads in a .357 case. There were noticeably more fliers and velocities became very inconsistent when chronographed...probably something to do with all the unoccupied case volume.
BTW, this was with a S&W 686 tricked out for Bianchi Cup (action pistol) shooting.0 -
Methinks it would be easier to just use .357 brass and 'cowboy' loads.No barnburners but nice and mild and accurate. No need to change the die settins for 2 calibers either. Makes life easier.
Throckmorton SASS #231490 -
just load 38 loads as recommended. the extra 0.1" bullet jump aint going to make any difference.
morty0 -
If you end up loading 38's don't forget to clean the chambers really good before you start shooting 357's in it. It will raise pressures because of the
build up of residue.......
Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.0 -
i like throckmortons advice and second it. youll get real tired of changing dies, bean...youre about to learn what we mean by that!(btw, get a dillon 550 and 'set it and forget it!'[:D] or, email me.
former air operations officer SEAL Delivery Vehicle Team 2. former navy skeet team, former navy rifle/pistol team member. co-owner skeetmaster tubes inc.. owner/operator professional shooting instruction. NRA certified instructor.0 -
quote:Originally posted by mrbruce
If you end up loading 38's don't forget to clean the chambers really good before you start shooting 357's in it. It will raise pressures because of the
build up of residue.......
Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.
I've never heard of chamber pressures jumping because of a dirty cylinder, I have heard, though, that it's sometimes hard to load and eject the .357 fired brass with a dirty cylinder. [:D]
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Throckmorton hit the nail on the head, I just load light target loads for plinking and practice in my 357, that way I do not have to change the die adjustments switching back and forth between 38 and 357 all the time
Chris8161
Admit nothing, deny everything, demand proof![IMG][/img][IMG][/img]0 -
I agree with Throckmorton.[^] [^] [^] 0 -
quote:Originally posted by rldowns3
quote:Originally posted by mrbruce
If you end up loading 38's don't forget to clean the chambers really good before you start shooting 357's in it. It will raise pressures because of the
build up of residue.......
Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.
I've never heard of chamber pressures jumping because of a dirty cylinder, I have heard, though, that it's sometimes hard to load and eject the .357 fired brass with a dirty cylinder. [:D]
If you don't clean the chamber you will have a problem with pressure because of the build up as I said, and it will be a ring of residue right at the end of the shorter case that will interfer with the longer case of the 357, and it will raise the pressure, maybe not enough to do major damage, but it sure will raise the pressure.
It is not the dirty chamber that will cause that to happen, it's that pesky biuld up just ahead of the case. The same thing can happen to a lesser extent in a 22 long rifle if you shoot a lot of shorts, and then go to a long rifle...
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Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.0 -
That little ring of residue build-up isn't going to effect chamber pressures in a revolver. As I have said I have never heard of this. It's moot anyway because when fired the brass swells into the cylinder sealing the chamber off at that point anyway which is usually why you won't get any gas and powder flash coming from around the brass and out the rear of the cylinder.
That little ring of buildup has no effect on pressure.
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Case length, or overall length, are not significant in a revolver, as long as the bullet doesn't stick out the front of the cylinder. (Overall length is critical in autos.)
If you are concerned about accuracy, you can raise the gun to vertical before each shot, then lower it to horizontal (where your target is). This assures a uniform distribution of the powder inside the case for every shot. (I don't think you want to go to the trouble of filling each case with filler to keep the powder at the bottom.)
I generally load only .38's; the brass is cheaper than .357. Besides, people are always giving me their once-fired .38 brass, so I can't remember the last time I had to buy any.
With target loads, you can get up to 100 reloads out of a .38 case.
Neal0 -
Thanks for the advice, guys. 0 -
i got so much 38 brass i use it to mulch my gardens![:o)]
former air operations officer SEAL Delivery Vehicle Team 2. former navy skeet team, former navy rifle/pistol team member. co-owner skeetmaster tubes inc.. owner/operator professional shooting instruction. NRA certified instructor.0 -
I have found it is better to load .38 to specs, making them longer by not seating them in correctly leads to leaving to much boiler room in the case, and drops velocity way to much for any benefit, load to over all length specs and you will have no problem, take the advice given above about not shooting .38 before you shoot .357 due to the fouling it leaves, I have doubt about the pressure theory but I do know it makes extraction difficult, and in addition could cause some damage in the long run 0
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