How to Strip a Stock?
Any advice on the easiest way to strip a rifle stock to start a refinish? I have several Remington 788 stocks, some factory finished and some already refinished, all need to be stripped and refinished.
Also, any advice on a good refinishing kit?
Thanks and have a great day!
Also, any advice on a good refinishing kit?
Thanks and have a great day!
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Buy a comercially available stripper for furniture. These won't damage the wood, unlike some of the other strippers. I bought some at the local grocery store, so it isn't hard to find. 0 -
Aircraft remover has usually been my finish remover of choice. Get some good chemical gloves though, that stuff burns your skin big time
Love them Beavers
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First ,Get a bottle of fine wine[:D]HA
I have used a Orange based product
Forgot the name but easy to find
Works great and its not too bad smelling0 -
I usually just get them drunk, and they end up stripping by themselves.[:D]
"My faith, my country and my family will guide me; nothing more, nothing less" -Gen. Tommy Franks0 -
My two cents....after removing all hardware.
Most striping solvents are nasty enough to eat through common 'surgical type' gloves. Get some heavy rubber / industrial type gloves.
Most commercial brush on/scrape off thick chemical strippers like "strip-eze", "klean strip", et. al. will work fine. If removing a poly finish, this is the best way to go. The first application may as well be quick and then stiff brushed off because the first one will just 'open up' the finish. After that brush on a thick coat, soak, and brush/scrape/wipe off, then repeat 'till done.
If you have an oily mil-surp, or a hand rubbed oil finish (certainly you are not removing a hand-rubbed oil finish), you can just use toluene to strip off / suck out the oils. If you can't get toluene , you can use laquer thinner or acetone or turpentine (from 'hot to mild'). These are cheaper but not as thick as commercial products and may take a few more cycles to get it all off. For a linseed oiled stock, turpentine for the bulk of the work is fine. It is easier to work with and not as 'hot' as the other stuff. After most is removed, go to the more volatile chems to clean up. Near the end, you can suck out the last remnants with some dry caustic or salts, but I generally don't. A hot hair dryer, or better, a warm oven can be a great help to work with things warmed up whichever course you choose.
I have used tin foil to make a custom fit 'pan' for the stock to soak in with various strippers. That seems to help conserve the stripping chemical. If you are using a thick commercial product it doesn't make as much difference. Everyone prefers soaking to elbow grease.
In the end you will have to do some finish sanding. Start with medium/fine paper and move to finer and then steel wool. Be sure to use a 'sanding block' of wood or foam to help keep an even surface. Make sure you spend enough time here (a lot). Once you start to re-finish, any scratch you missed will haunt you.
Now many smarter people look for a 'pro'.
If you have a commercial stripper in your area, drop it off, he will drop it in his tank(s), and when complete it can be a much better job for just a little cash. Since you have more than one to do, it may be worth considering. You can work on other 'stuff' for a day or two.
WHATEVER you do, you will need a bunch of time and patience.
It sounds like you have enough to keep you busy. ENJOY !0 -
Yes it can be trial and error with some of the strippers . We have even sandblasted a few ???
Good Luck !
d.a.stearns
Gunsmith / LEO
Niota , Tn
My dog is the best person I know...
If only more people could be as loyal and honest as my dog!!!
I love guns & Shooting!0 -
I have often used EASY-OFF OVEN CLEANER to strip the
stock, Oil finish stocks DO NOT LIKE THIS!!!
BE SAFE!! Buffler0 -
spray some wipe-out bore cleaner on it. Gone in 60sec[8D]
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
Got Balistics?0 -
Try here, http://www.mausercentral.com/stocking.htm 
"Aim small, Miss small"0
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