AR-15 Firing Pin Retaining Pin
I give up, I just spent the last two hours trying to put that darn split pin back in. I know it will go, 'cause it fits through the back end just fine. The problem is, how do you squeeze it shut so it will pass through the other side? Is there a tool made to help on this?
I want to cut the pin so one end enters the hole first, then I can prolly work the other side in after, but Don's book says not to "damage" or alter the pin.
What's the secret??
I searched using the term "Firing Pin," and found no help, so I'm posting. Any help or hints greatly appreciated.
I want to cut the pin so one end enters the hole first, then I can prolly work the other side in after, but Don's book says not to "damage" or alter the pin.
What's the secret??
I searched using the term "Firing Pin," and found no help, so I'm posting. Any help or hints greatly appreciated.
0
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have you tried turning it as you put it in? Also, pay attention to the firing pin to make sure the shoulder isn't in the way. 0 -
Tinman....... As mentioned, make sure the firing pin is pushed all the way in.
What I use is a small pointed tool like a small screw driver, dental pick etc. Once you have the retaining pin thru the first half and passed the firing pin, use the tool to push through the inside of the carrier on the part of the retaining pin that will not quite line up. This and turning the pin usually works.
Sometimes the retaining pin gets bent so bad it is beyond help and needs to be replaced.
Joe
"Never let school interfere with your education"0 -
What a PITA!! I broke open a sealed "Small Parts Pack" and replaced the pin with a new one---still a PITA to get in, but the dental pick from the bottom side did it.
Do the bolt and carrier assy need to be completely disassembled each time I clean this thing, or can I dip it in CLP and let it air-dry? I'm thinking next time I'll just spray the heck out of it with something like brake cleaner, then CLP, then shake it dry? I don't want to be lazy on this, but if I gotta wrestle with that pin each time I shoot this thing, it might end up sitting in the safe.
Comments or hints welcome.
Tinny0 -
The firing pin can go a while before it really needs a scrub, but not too long. I've never had this issue personally (firing pin retaining pin)But the gas rings on the back of the bolt and the gas tube on the carrier need cleaning after every range session.
Ted Kennedy's car has killed more people than my gun.0 -
What brand of AR are you using? I've got a Colt AR that has exactly the same problem you talked about. I just got one from Rock River Arms. The pin slides in easily on the Rock River. 0 -
I have never had this problem with any AR rifle I have taken apart. I have what they call an M16 retaining pin in one of my rifles. It is a solid pin that kind of looks like a machine screw without any threads. I got it from DPMS, but now I can't find it on theire website. Give them a call tomorrow, maybe they can help you. Good Luck
"My faith, my country and my family will guide me; nothing more, nothing less" -Gen. Tommy Franks0 -
Mine is an Oly Arms, and the pin is a simple, split cotter-pin, that is slightly splayed (spread). It's part #40 in this diagram:
http://www.olyarms.com/pdf/ARParts.pdf
Both prongs of the pin are the same length, whereas most automotive cotterpins have one short prong, which makes insertion much easier.
A simple cure for this would be to shorten one prong, but both Oly Arms and also Scott Duff's book say not to alter the pin.
If you insert the pin and try to turn it, you twist the split prongs out of shape---that's what happened to the first pin.
I think I'll just order a dozen or so from Oly Arms and experiment with reshaping the end. Maybe some fine sandpaper, and rounding the end might help. I'll prolly write to Oly Arms and ask their armorer what the secret is. If they do sell or authorize an aftermarket, solid pin---I'm buying one.0 -
Tinman, don't alter the pin in any way. Try using a small needle nose pliers to install the pin. Is the pin straight, or is one of the prongs bent? I will check when I go to the shop this afternoon if I have an extra M16 pin in stock.
"My faith, my country and my family will guide me; nothing more, nothing less" -Gen. Tommy Franks0 -
Tinman,
It's always a good idea to clean an AR after every range outing because the gas system deposits a lot of crud in the bolt and action. In the Army we had a saying about the M16/M4 that is craps where it eats. All the products of combustion are blown back into the bolt and bolt carrier because of the direct gas action of this particular design.
I suggest dissasembly of the bolt and carrier and a good scrubbing with pipe cleaners and a good copper solvent. Most people would suggest Break Free, but if you look close at the bolt just ahead of the gas rings and inside the carrier, you will see tons of copper residue from the bullet jackets and Break Free doesnt affect this much. Copper and the nasty carbon crud are better dealt with using Sweets or an amonia based solvent, THEN a rinse with brake cleaner before oil and re-assembly. The gas tube will also amaze you with the amount of gunk that can accumulate there and eventually slow things down.
I agree with Mooseyard that the solid pins are easier and more reliable. If my memory serves me correctly, the firing pin retaining pin is easist to put back in if the ends of the pin are not bent in any way and the pin is inserted sideways meaning the split ends of the cotter pin are up and down and the round end of the pin runs sort of lengthwise on the bolt. If you attempt to put the pin in turned the other way, the split ends of the cotter pin tend to open around the firing pin, especially if you try to drive it in hard. Just insert it kinda pointing it towards the top of the bolt until it clears the firing pin and you feel it curve down the other side of the bolt carrier and then look through the other side to guide it out the hole.
SKYDIVER3860
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