Dura-Kote flaking off
The finish I applied on my 10/22 is starting to flake off. Any guess why it is happening? I cleaned the parts with acetone before sparying, also suspended them from wires. I know why the receiver may be flaking; finish ran first time. But, the barrel is a mystery. It is only flaking off in one spot on the bottom. I'm thinking I may have touched that spot, which would explain the flaking there. I did not sand/medium blast the parts before applying. Could this be the reason? I ruffed up the surface with 320 grit emery cloth, wiped it down well with the acetone, then sprayed and baked the finshes after it had dried for one hour. Any thoughts, or suggestions for when I reapply?
Dance Hippo. Dance.
Dance Hippo. Dance.
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Duracoat is meant to be applied very thinly by airbrush, are you sure you're not talking about Gun-Kote?
Love them Beavers0 -
It's the one in the can from Brownell's; Gun-Kote in a can. It is available in airosal can or liquid for air-brushing. I went the spray can route.
Dance Hippo. Dance.0 -
I'm thinking you might have applied it too heavily so the solvents didn't get a chance to evaporate out before the outer layer dried and sealed it in. I've seen similar things happen with some formulations of paint
Love them Beavers0 -
Dura-Coat needs to be absolutely dry, if you touched a spot, the oil from your finger prevented the Dura-coat from sticking.
"My faith, my country and my family will guide me; nothing more, nothing less" -Gen. Tommy Franks0 -
Acetone evaporates pretty quickly. I let the parts stand for about five to ten minutes before application. I allowed the Kote to dry for about an hour, as recommended in the instructions. The touching and not getting the receiver clean enough probaly did it.
Dance Hippo. Dance.0 -
I am currently running an experiment with gun-Kote results of which will be posted in approx a week. I found it to be very forgiving on rust but very unforgiving on dirt or oils. This sounds like the issue here. As with any coating, surface prep and handling are absolutely key to ensure success.
Ted Kennedy's car has killed more people than my gun.0 -
Gun kote needs to be sand blasted as I discovered with the same product. I did the same as you with the sanding over blasting on an 870 remington and within 2 days it was flaking. I sandbalsted it and it worked just fine. Sandblast it and it will work so much better. And yes it is not forgiving with dirt and oil. I used normal brake cleaner followed by denatured alcohol. 0 -
Thanks for the info on Brownell's. I can now do it myself easily. Did you bake it in an oven? Did it leave any bad smells? Jim
Jim Kammerer0 -
quote:Originally posted by JAK71454
Thanks for the info on Brownell's. I can now do it myself easily. Did you bake it in an oven? Did it leave any bad smells? Jim
Jim Kammerer
Used the kitchen over, no bad smells left.
Dance Hippo. Dance.0 -
Precursor to experiment results: (a good bit of them)
Sandblasting is not really necessary although for best results I recommend using glass bead. Acetone or denatured alchohol is an absolute must, use a NEW brush and scrub.
Stuck to stainless, zinc, carbon steel and aluminum with no issues (blasted and not)
Covered rust with a second coat (can barely tell its there) filled minor pitting well.
Test pieces soaked in the following for over a week each with no adverse effect- Acetone, alchohol, Hoppes#9, Break Free, Rem Oil, Black Powder bore cleaner, Soapy water(dawn dish detergent), Gas turbine compressor cleaner(my favorite degreaser), GI bore cleaner, and kerosene. Did not try Gasoline,Brake cleaner, or any citrus/orange cleaners
Follow dry time to excess-any deviation will mess up 2nd coat. Coating bubbles at about 450 degrees.
Working on a good abrasion resistance test-will get back. Prelim results are that it takes effort to scratch with a screwdriver
Ted Kennedy's car has killed more people than my gun.0
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