Painting ADL stock
I would like to paint my ADL stock and add webbing like HS Precision. What are the steps to do this. Thanks,
"When one responsibly procures his family's dinner by hand, each meal becomes a sacred rite. It is good, and so is the feast!" --Ted Nugent
"When one responsibly procures his family's dinner by hand, each meal becomes a sacred rite. It is good, and so is the feast!" --Ted Nugent
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mbrook,
If this is the factory plastic stock made from recycled milk jugs, be prepared for some work. Just by touching the stock you will realize that it has a slippery greasy feel to it. That is the nature of the plastic that Remington uses to make these injection molded peices of junk. Anyway...
The biggest problem is getting the paint to stick to the surface and not just wipe off or scratch after it dries. I use some fine sand paper to rough up the surface a bit. The stock has to be de-greased thoroughly, not just a quick wipe down with a cloth and some carb cleaner. I use acetone from the hardware store as it is inexpensive and does a good job. Be sure to use in a well ventilated area (outdoors is good) and have chemical resistant rubber gloves on your hands. I'm not kidding.
On the other hand, you could try "Simple Green", it is supposed to work pretty good but I don't know about on this type of plastic. I would certainly opt for something like this instead of acetone but only if it worked correctly.
Degrease and then don't touch the stock with your bare hands at all. I paint with the stock supported by a wire or wires and a dowel or something that you can rig up in your garage or temporarily outdoors when the wind isn't blowing. I can spray outside early in the morning and later in the evening because there isn't a breath of air stirring. Then I bring it inside to dry. I have a spray booth at the shop but that doesn't do you any good, does it?
You can use a primer or try this product from Krylon:
Krylon : Fusion Spray Paint
http://www.utilitysafeguard.com/s.nl/sc.22/category.4119/.f
Yes, it's expensive but it works. If you want cheap get "Stone Guard" from NAPA or "Chip Guard" or bed liner paint and see if it will stick. Once you've done a couple of these, it will become clear why it make more sense to buy a good synthetic stock made correctly from good materials and go on with your life.
Good Luck!
OOPS, I forgot the spray webbing...
http://www.misterart.com/store/view.cfm?group_id=1353&store=0030 -
Thanks nonsense,
I will be practicing on an ADL stock before I attempt a more expensive synthetic stock.
mbrook
"When one responsibly procures his family's dinner by hand, each meal becomes a sacred rite. It is good, and so is the feast!" --Ted Nugent0 -
mbrook,
Real synthetic stocks are much easier to work with and you can apply the techniques that the autobody folks use, both in preparation and application.
Preparation is the key to a great finished product. The better the prep, the better the finish. Make sure that you can work in as nearly a dust free environment as possible. Light coats, multiple times for the best finish. I had to practice with the spray webbing just on cardboard a few times to get the knack of distance and speed of application. You will be amazed at the variations in texture that you can get from the webbing.
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Do you apply a top coat or sealer?
"When one responsibly procures his family's dinner by hand, each meal becomes a sacred rite. It is good, and so is the feast!" --Ted Nugent0 -
mbrook,
It depends on whether or not the rifle has to make a weight restriction. Some competition rifles can't go the extra couple of ounces and still be within the weight restriction of competition classes. Barrels, triggers and accuracy are more important than the paint job.
But if it's a hunting rifle or there is plenty of room for the weight, yes, definitely. Again several light coats and drying in between or whatever your particular instructions have written. Good fiberglass stocks are just like cars, you can get the finish to be really deep and glossy for that show-off kind of look that some competitors seem to favor or you can add coats and keep them flatter for the shear protection of the paint design.
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Thank you again,
What prep work do you complete when working with a high quality synthetic like a McMillian? Also, I have a painted black Bell & Carlson do I need to strip the paint to add a new color and webbing?
"When one responsibly procures his family's dinner by hand, each meal becomes a sacred rite. It is good, and so is the feast!" --Ted Nugent0 -
mbrook,
On the high quality stocks such as McMillan and others using a gelcoat it is relatively simple.
Lightly sand with very fine 'wet-n-dry' type sandpaper used wet and check the mold seams to be sure that they are done. Fill any small voids or scratches that may be present and sand. Degrease thoroughly and don't touch any surface with your bare hands, then shoot with a top quality primer. Then proceed with the paint design of your choosing.
I wouldn't bother stripping the B&C, just do like the ones above and be sure to use a top quality primer.
An automotive painter or even better a top stock painter can give you better details if you want to get real particular about a special or complex finish.
That's the simple explanation.
Best.0
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