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Bought the SKS, question?

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5 comments

  • rufe-snow
    If you steamed cleaned the trigger assembly, I wouldn't worry about it.

    What you really have to be sure that is clean, is the firing pin channel in the bolt. Drive out the retaining pin and take the firing pin out. Clean all dried grease and gunk out with solvents and a small diameter cleaning implement.

    Not cleaning the firing pin channel of dried grease is the primary cause of slam fires, specially with commerical ammo that has sensitive primers.

    luger_4.jpg
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  • gobucks
    quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
    If you steamed cleaned the trigger assembly, I wouldn't worry about it.

    What you really have to be sure that is clean, is the firing pin channel in the bolt. Drive out the retaining pin and take the firing pin out. Clean all dried grease and gunk out with solvents and a small diameter cleaning implement.

    Not cleaning the firing pin channel of dried grease is the primary cause of slam fires, specially with commerical ammo that has sensitive primers.

    luger_4.jpg


    Thanks rufe-snow. I made sure to pay a lot of attention to the firing pin. Knocked out the dowel pin, pulled the firing pin and the spring assmbly, soaked and steamed the whole thing, then used canned air to blow dry. It's spotless. I put a tiny bit of gun oil on the pin after reassembly, should I have left it dry?
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  • rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by gobucks

    Thanks rufe-snow. I made sure to pay a lot of attention to the firing pin. Knocked out the dowel pin, pulled the firing pin and the spring assmbly, soaked and steamed the whole thing, then used canned air to blow dry. It's spotless. I put a tiny bit of gun oil on the pin after reassembly, should I have left it dry?


    What "spring assmbly" unless you got a early Russian or a U.S. reworked bolt, there shouldn't be any spring(s) in contact with the firing pin. That's what causes the slam-fire problem, i.e. no mechanical means to retract the firing pin, it's controlled strictly by inertia.

    luger_4.jpg
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  • gobucks
    quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by gobucks

    Thanks rufe-snow. I made sure to pay a lot of attention to the firing pin. Knocked out the dowel pin, pulled the firing pin and the spring assmbly, soaked and steamed the whole thing, then used canned air to blow dry. It's spotless. I put a tiny bit of gun oil on the pin after reassembly, should I have left it dry?


    What "spring assmbly" unless you got a early Russian or a U.S. reworked bolt, there shouldn't be any spring(s) in contact with the firing pin. That's what causes the slam-fire problem, i.e. no mechanical means to retract the firing pin, it's controlled strictly by inertia.

    luger_4.jpg


    I'm a novice, don't know all the terminology, so I looked it up, which is what I should have done in the first place. It's the extractor and the extractor spring. The firing pin rattles in the housing so I'm sure it's OK.
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  • gobucks
    quote:Originally posted by gg1519
    The sks does not need to be cleaned a whole lot since it is so reliable if you have a good magazine that came with it. The firing pin on my russian sks gets a little dirty but even after 300 or so rounds it still goes bang. Its fun to clean after the first couple of times but then it gets a little boring and now i don't clean it until it gets really dirty, if you oil it too much chances are some of that oil will get thrown into your eyes when you start to shoot in rapid fire. just a little info. I like to share with new sks owners, im no expert but i know a couple of things you should and should not do from experience.


    I've got an XD-40 that I always over oil. I somehow got it stuck in my mind that too much oil is OK. After a few rounds I got oil coming off the back of the slide. I'm sure I'll do the same on the SKS.
    I've got all the cosmo off of it now. Ready to get it back together and have some fun.
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