COLT GOLD CUP QUESTION???????
I JUST PURCHASED A USED COLT GOLD CUP N.M. SER. 80. SER #SN060XXE I NOTICED THAT SOME OF THESE CAME WITH AN EXTRA BUFFER SPRING. SHOULD MINE HAVE COME WITH THIS SPRING??? WAS IT FOR LIGHTER LOADS, OR JUST A BACK UP SPRING? IF I NEED THIS SPRING WHERE CAN I GET ONE, AND FOR HOW MUCH??THANX FOR ALL YOUR HELP WAYNE AKA TWINCAM2
Know how to make God laugh...? Make plans.
Know how to make God laugh...? Make plans.
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I don't recall seeing any GC with more than the installed recoil spring. Different strength springs have different #s of coils; I don't recall how many "full strength" springs have. Springs are inexpensive, are replaced often by competitive shooters, & can be found at any dealer who sells parts. I'm sure Brownell's has them.
Neal0 -
Being the Gold Cup is a 'target' gun ,the spring would be of 'lessor' poundage ,say an 16- 18 # spring. If one was to shoot 'ball' ammo ,then you would want a stronger spring like a 20 or 22 pound spring. It is hard to tell what you have just by "looking at it". As the weights are usually on the package. A good gunsmith or even an 'experienced' shooter could tell by the feel of the slide,(working the action) which spring is in the gun.
Use the proper one so you do NOT beat the crap out of the gun........
dan0 -
Hello there has allways been 2 schools of thought on what type of loads could /should be shot in a colt Gold Cup .Even colt couldn't make up there mind as some slides were lightened and some were not . IMHO the best thing to do is go to brownells and buy one of their 1911 spring kits and then match the spring to the load that you want to shoot this needs to be done every time you go from target load to full HARDBALL load to +P loads . The easiest way to do this is take one of the loads and start with a spring load one round in a magazine load and shoot this one round if the slide locks back install one heavier spring and repeat test until the slide does not lock back this spring is too heavy for the slide to cycle all the way and you need to go back to one just lighter then the one that fails . If you match a spring to a load it will keep the slide from slaming into the frame and the pistol will last much longer.remember the lighter the load the lighter the spring. "PRAISE THE HARDBALL GUN" 0 -
AS ALWAYS THANK YOU FOR ALL THE INFORMATION. I WILL FOLLOW YOUR SUGGESTIONS. I HAVE A FRIEND WHO HAS A SRING KIT, WE ARE GOING OUT THIS WEEK END WITN SEVERAL LOADS AND TRY IT OUT, THANX AGAIN WAYNE AKA TWINCAM2
Know how to make God laugh...? Make plans.0 -
i just bought a gold cut too! my dealer gave me springs for it... a very light spring for 185 gr wadcutters, and 18 # spring for the plus p and regular 230 gr ball ammo. good luck, can't wait to shoot mine! 0 -
I buy directly from wolf when not purchasing other items from brownells, the price includes shipping, and of course they are never out of stock
http://www.gunsprings.com/
When choosing a spring for your gun, of course match the load to the spring {you got the lighter load lighter spring idea already}
but here are a few things to help you decide, you want it to be able to feed the cartridge, and eject the spent case with out beating up the frame, ideally the spent case should eject three to six feet from the gun, while a stronger spring is desired to avoid frame damage, you want to lean toward the lighter spring to be reliable without damage, in addition to ejecting the case you want to make sure it will lock the slide back, it can take a few hundred rounds for a malfunction to occur but you usually find out in one or two magazines
most manufactures are using 16 to 16.5 pound springs to cover all the bases, I my self use a 16.5 variable rated spring on 185 grain bullets at 900fps, any higher I move to a 17.5,lower I use a 15# when shooting 230 grain factory ammo I move up to a 18#, most of the spring kits I have seen use to many lower weight springs, also when changing them pull them out one at a time and put them back right away they are easy to mix up0
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