Need a Value on my Lever Gun
I need to put a value on my dad's old lever gun for insurance. It's a Winchester Model 65, 25-20 W.C.F., Serial 1002XXX (made in 1934), in what I consider to be NRA G+ condition. All original parts - not refinished, virtually perfect wood fore and aft, 60% barrel bluing with some light surface rust, brown patina on receiver, shiny bore. The only "modification" was that my dad electropenciled his name on the wood side of the butt plate.
I've attached few pictures below...




Can anyone help with a ballpark value?
I've attached few pictures below...




Can anyone help with a ballpark value?
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Graded as an antique (though the Model 65 was made from 1933 to 1947, and is technically a modern firearm), it sounds like the rifle is NRA Fine. As a modern firearm, it would be graded NRA Fair. My price guides vary widely on the rifle's value. A "ballpark" figure for your Dad's rifle should be between $650 and $1200, assuming all parts are original, the rifle is safe to shoot and Dad's name isn't too obvious with the rifle assembled (if I understand your description correctly, the name is on the wood stock, hidden by the buttplate). If I were assessing the rifle's replacement value for insurance purposes, I'd lean toward the $1200 figure.
"I think of my gun as a tool for converting worthless human garbage into valuable fertilizer." John Dollar in the novel "Bridge City" by Fred Rexer0 -
G'evening,
Per the current Blue Book, the model 65 was made betweeen 1933 and 1947, 5704 total. 25-20 was the rarest caliber, also made in 32-20 and the .218 Bee (starting 1939). The mag should hold 7 rounds. The round barrel should be 22 inches long.
Blue Book Values:
95% - 3,260
80% - 2,475
70% - 2,100
60% - 1,800
50% - 1,500
40% - 1,260
Hope this helps. Looks like your Dad has a very nice rifle.
Regards, Bob0 -
Thanks for the replies. Dad passed away in '95, so this will be kept as a special momento and passed down to my son. His name is lightly etched on the metal on the hidden side of the buttplate. To see it, one must remove the plate a flip it over. It's not visible at all when it's assembled. The rifle is fully functional and all parts are original
If I remove the rust with 0000 steel wool and oil, will it hurt the value? I've restored several old rifles - mostly milsurps, but I'm afraid to do anything to this old gal. Also, should I do anything to protect the wood?0 -
Use the 0000 steel wool, just make sure to keep it very wet with oil. Take it out of the stock first. This will remove the rust without hurting the blue. Many times if the surface has not gone very deep it hasn't had time to pitt the steel. 0 -
I now use 0000 bronze wool & Kroil. But, from the photos, I can see that it's too late to save the rusted/pitted areas of your rifle. You can stop the spread of rust, but you can't reverse the damage that has already been done.
You can't really "restore" a gun; anything more than cleaning/oiling will mutilate/refinish it.
Neal0 -
Consider a couple of additional approaches to removal of the rust blooms: first, a 5 or 6H lead pencil will work and not degrade the surface or blue, but will cut the rust.(graphite as an abrasive..)2nd, use a pre '64 copper penny's edge to act as a scraper to cut the rust. Never has failed for me and fills in the voids with copper particles which seems to stop further oxidation. Both of these, with a good lube (small amt of auto transmission high detergent(watch your hands!)) will work as much wonder as possible. Steel wool, even very fine, will de-grade high polish finishes..........Splitz 0 -
quote:Originally posted by 363gpa
...use a pre '64 copper penny's edge to act as a scraper to cut the rust.Believe it or not, when I reached in my change bucket to get a penny to try this, I pulled out a 1943 penny! It felt a little funny, and I'm glad I looked at the date! (For those of you who don't know, due to the shortage of copper during the war, pennies were made from steel that year.) I could have really messed up!
Thanks again for all the input.0
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