How about this pinfire revolver?
Hi,
I'm a newbie here. I have an antique pinfire revolver. I have posted 9 jpeg photos here and a detailled description. I posted previously on 6/8/5 with a question about a "rare mark". Any comments are appreciated in advance. Here's the description:
This pinfire revolver is about 9 1/2" long and about 5 1/2" high, not including sight and lanyard loop. It has no maker's name visible without disassembly.
It has a round, engraved, 6 shot cylinder which is removed by pulling its "axle/rod" forward, while the cylinder is removed to the right. It is approx.1-3/8" in diameter and 1-5/16" long.
The barrel is 4 3/4"long, has an octagon-shaped exterior and a rifled interior approx. 3/8" or slightly less in diameter. It is engraved on its top 3 surfaces. It was estimated by sight that the caliber is 9 mm.
The front sight is attached 3/8" from front of barrel, sits 5/16" high, mounted in a transverse groove and may be adjustable from side to side, but is frozen with more of itsa base jutting out on the left than on the right.
The rear sight is a cut in the frame, located where the hammer meets the frame and is complemented by a cut in the hammer's front tip. The hammer's rear tip is broken off.
The cartridges are inserted by opening a spring-locked chamber gate on right side of frame. The gate's lever-type spring with a finger tab is "tweaked" out of shape, such that gate will not close completely.
A cartridge ejector rod is located on same side of frame in front of barrel..
It is a "pinfire" type action. The hammer closes up against a metal wall in the frame between face of hammer and barrel, so hammer cannot hit cartridge directly. Hammer does not stay"cocked", so action is possible only by pulling trigger, or pulling back by hand and releasing. It does operate in single fire mode. The trigger, once fully squeezed, does not go back to the front position unless manually returned. I guess that means some internal spring or other part is broken.
The frame is engraved and consists of one or two pieces. There is a single upper-case "S" stamped on the right side of frame between rear of trigger guard and upper grip. There are three numerals, "976", stamped on the left side of frame between rear of trigger guard and upper grip. The "7" is not quite complete.
There is a mark on the top rear of the barrel where it meets the frame. It appears to be an "8" or two zeros butted against each other, with an arrow running through them, pointing to the front. There is one mark from the top of the front zero to the right edge of the barrel and one mark from the bottom of the rear zero to the left edge of the barrel.
I could find no other ID marks, other than the engraved decorations.
On the left side of the frame in front of the cylinder is a 1-1/16" long, lever-like metal piece attached with a screw at the bottom end. It acts as a spring-loaded lock to keep the cylinder axle from slipping forward.
I'm told the grips are "gutta purcha", a vulcanized rubber-like material, used for insulation, root canal filler and other decorative uses since 1874. The are elaborately engraved with a lanyard loop attached to the "butt". The engraving has swirls at the top. At the bottom is a 1-1/2' tall depiction, in heavy relief, of a military horseman (cavalry or dragoon?), complete with a long moustache, a Prussian style tunic and a helmet with a prong on top. He is wielding a sword or saber. The horse is prancing. On the right grip is the soldier's right side with him facing right. On the left grip is the soldier's left side with him still facing right and the rear of the helmet facing the viewer. Accumulation of dirt obscures more details there.
The pistol's patina is a darkish brown. If it is rust, it does impart an attractive patina.
Questions, please: Country of origin? Maker? Market value? Purpose of grip design? Somewhere to get this repaired and/or properly cleaned?
Thanks all, and here are 9 pix. Tony
1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

Thanks, everybody!
I'm a newbie here. I have an antique pinfire revolver. I have posted 9 jpeg photos here and a detailled description. I posted previously on 6/8/5 with a question about a "rare mark". Any comments are appreciated in advance. Here's the description:
This pinfire revolver is about 9 1/2" long and about 5 1/2" high, not including sight and lanyard loop. It has no maker's name visible without disassembly.
It has a round, engraved, 6 shot cylinder which is removed by pulling its "axle/rod" forward, while the cylinder is removed to the right. It is approx.1-3/8" in diameter and 1-5/16" long.
The barrel is 4 3/4"long, has an octagon-shaped exterior and a rifled interior approx. 3/8" or slightly less in diameter. It is engraved on its top 3 surfaces. It was estimated by sight that the caliber is 9 mm.
The front sight is attached 3/8" from front of barrel, sits 5/16" high, mounted in a transverse groove and may be adjustable from side to side, but is frozen with more of itsa base jutting out on the left than on the right.
The rear sight is a cut in the frame, located where the hammer meets the frame and is complemented by a cut in the hammer's front tip. The hammer's rear tip is broken off.
The cartridges are inserted by opening a spring-locked chamber gate on right side of frame. The gate's lever-type spring with a finger tab is "tweaked" out of shape, such that gate will not close completely.
A cartridge ejector rod is located on same side of frame in front of barrel..
It is a "pinfire" type action. The hammer closes up against a metal wall in the frame between face of hammer and barrel, so hammer cannot hit cartridge directly. Hammer does not stay"cocked", so action is possible only by pulling trigger, or pulling back by hand and releasing. It does operate in single fire mode. The trigger, once fully squeezed, does not go back to the front position unless manually returned. I guess that means some internal spring or other part is broken.
The frame is engraved and consists of one or two pieces. There is a single upper-case "S" stamped on the right side of frame between rear of trigger guard and upper grip. There are three numerals, "976", stamped on the left side of frame between rear of trigger guard and upper grip. The "7" is not quite complete.
There is a mark on the top rear of the barrel where it meets the frame. It appears to be an "8" or two zeros butted against each other, with an arrow running through them, pointing to the front. There is one mark from the top of the front zero to the right edge of the barrel and one mark from the bottom of the rear zero to the left edge of the barrel.
I could find no other ID marks, other than the engraved decorations.
On the left side of the frame in front of the cylinder is a 1-1/16" long, lever-like metal piece attached with a screw at the bottom end. It acts as a spring-loaded lock to keep the cylinder axle from slipping forward.
I'm told the grips are "gutta purcha", a vulcanized rubber-like material, used for insulation, root canal filler and other decorative uses since 1874. The are elaborately engraved with a lanyard loop attached to the "butt". The engraving has swirls at the top. At the bottom is a 1-1/2' tall depiction, in heavy relief, of a military horseman (cavalry or dragoon?), complete with a long moustache, a Prussian style tunic and a helmet with a prong on top. He is wielding a sword or saber. The horse is prancing. On the right grip is the soldier's right side with him facing right. On the left grip is the soldier's left side with him still facing right and the rear of the helmet facing the viewer. Accumulation of dirt obscures more details there.
The pistol's patina is a darkish brown. If it is rust, it does impart an attractive patina.
Questions, please: Country of origin? Maker? Market value? Purpose of grip design? Somewhere to get this repaired and/or properly cleaned?
Thanks all, and here are 9 pix. Tony
1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

Thanks, everybody!
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I have a number of very similar pinfire revolvers shown in my reference. They are identified as being "Lefaucheux Type" with "Improved Solid Frame", from "Unknown Makers".
One of the revolvers construction appears to be identical to yours except it's not engraved. The grips are of different configuration, round bottom "Bag Grip", and they appear to be made of hard rubber.
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Rufe-snow is right about it being LeFaucheux type, which were made by many makers over many years mostly in Belgium and France. Theydon't command a lot of collector attention or value, yours around $250. In perfect condition so decorated maybe twice that. Plain ordinary similar pieces less than half that number. Yours appears in beautifully patinized condition and I would do no more than clean it with light oil such as WD40 and possibly 0000 steel wool. Do not try to remove the brown, go very lightly to remove any loose rust. If there is stubborn rust, it would be better to leave it than disturb the even brown patina. Protect the grips while cleaning the metal. The pistol probably was originally blued but it is possible that the original finish was browned. If the present brown is original finish the above value doubles in my opinion. 0 -
Thanks for both of the replies above. Very helpful.
What techniques would anyone advise for cleaning the accumulated dirt (probably skin grease) around the carved horseman figure on the hardened (gutta purcha) grips? It is definitely obscuring significant details, including, I think, a cannon barrel in the background. Photos #s 6,7,8.
Anyone have a comment on the apparently rare "logo" mark? It's an "8" or double "00" with an arrow through it pointing toward the right. It's in the closeup photo, #1, which is where the top of the barrel meets the top "strap", just left of the smaller curvy engraving on the right.
Also see my post on the 8th with other comments on a dealer's other gun with that mark but no brand name.
Thanks everyone!0 -
I would try a toothbrush with detergent and water for the grips. Alcohol with the brush would be my next try but I would first take the grips off and test inside to see if the alcohol harms the material. A rag wet with alcohol, scrub with one finger to see if you get color transfer to the rag. The amount of color will give you some idea of its effect on the material. Same procedure with other solvents, WD40 for example. If you use WD40 or other oil be sure to wash it off afterward with soap or detergent. 0
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