Winchester model 12
Looking for a model 12 in 20ga. or 12ga. made in 1953. What ser. # range would I be looking for?
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Can a winchester model 12 12 gauge 2 3/4" chamber be modified ( have chamber lenghtened) to shoot 3" shells
The reason i ask is i own a model 12 roit gun (watts commemorative edition[:D]) which is in like new condition. I would like to purchase a extra barrel/ mag,forearm which i see a lot of on ebay. I would like to have a spare duck gun realize the new set up will have to be fitted .What i really wanted was a 12 heavy duck
thanks rp0 -
Hello tksims: Well you really did take it down. For the record all Md 12's are take down. "Take down" was a hold over from the Md 97 which came in both solid frame and take down versions.
Anyway, yes the bolt has to be all the way forward. Sometimes you have to press the back of the firing pin forward, to get the release to lie down and get the bolt up tight against the top of the receiver. Hopefully you put the ejector back in? Also the cartridge stop has to lie flat to get the trigger guard assy. back in right so the carrier will go up and down freely.
Regards Dave0 -
How do I get the bolt back up toward the barrel end? 0 -
Hello tk: Is the barrel assy. on or off? If it's on, slide the forearm foreward. If it's off, have you had the breech bolt completely out of the receiver and now you are trying to reinstall it? Or is the breech bolt in the receiver but all the way back? I need to know where to start? Dave 0 -
Okay, I just had the trigger assembley out and got the bolt up toward the breech. But I couldn't get the forearm rod hooked or attached to the bolt!? So I just put the trigger assembley back and reattached the barrels to frame. But still don't understand how to reattach the forearm slide with the bolt? I can take down but it seems I can't get the the slide arm attached to the bolt? SORRY! 0 -
Hi tk: Remember I'm not there to see it, so I don't want to type every possible scenerio.
Remove the trigger guard assy. and the barrel assy from the receiver. Looking into the receiver at the bottom of the bolt, on the solid side of the receiver, (non ejection port side) you will see two little rectangles on the edge of the bolt they are about a 1/2 in apart may 1/16th by 1/8th of an inch. This is the slide rail lock up. If you look real close one stick out further than the other, with a small flat nose screw driver, gently work it between this little tab and the receiver, you will see it start to pivot, (move) then the other little tab comes into contact with the recevier. On the back side of the bolt, you will see a round protrusionn, (a little button_ push it in and press the bolt firmly up to the top of the receiver. If the bolt wont move forward push the tab that's agains the receiver toward the bolt with your screw driver. (the firing pin has to be pressed to releve the firing pin retractor. Then slide the bolt all the way forward. It shold lock into place with the extractors in the chamber ting. Regards Dave0 -
Thanks Dave, I understand how that works now and have got it back together! The bolt has to be seated forward with the firing pin fired. However when I tested it again I still had to remove the trigger assembly and position the bolt in place withfiring pin in position. Seems if I "take down" the bolt falls out of position, How do I keep that from happening? So I don't have to take trigger assembly out and reposition bolt? Again thanks! Cheers, Travis 0 -
Hi tk: sounds like the ejector is missing. The ejector fit into a slot on the receiver side at the rear of the bolt between the bolt and receiver. It is about an inch long with a flat curved spring, on the back side of it. This has to be removed to pull the bolt out of the receiver. Regards Dave 0
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