blueing percentage
How do I calculate the percentage of original blueing left on a gun?
0
-
Hello misskelly, and welcome aboard.[:)]
The question you introduce yourself with is a good one, and could bring many replies if it goes to the top when more of the hardcore "experts" are tuned in. Bluing, and finish condition in general is a very important factor in estimating the value of a firearm, as you can well imagine; and estimating the value of firearms is a complex science and an art.
A few of the members herein are very good at it, and since I respect them all, I won't name even one, lest I insult any by leaving them out.
Tomorrow afternoon, some really good informatiion should start coming in for you, marbe even earlier.
I hope you will check out "general discussion" later on and join right in this fast paced and interesting forum.
Best wishes and good posting![^]
Frog.
RiBBButt...You can't rollerskate in a buffalo herd, but you can be happy if you've a mind to. -Roger Miller0 -
As stated above it is more an art than a science. If the gun is in new condition the blue will be 100%. You look at an gun in near new conditon but showing signs of wear, usually on the high points and sharp edges where handling and holster wear would occur and you estimate how much of the original finish has worn off. If you think about 3% is gone or badly worn, the gun finish is 97%. A well used gun may have little finish left, say 20%, which will describe that gun. Percentage is only part of the description process because the remaining finish may have thin places, scratches, etc. You can try to estimate that or go into a verbal call. Finally, people being people, will tend to have different opinions as to the percentage numbers of a given piece, often obvious if the 'describer' is a buyer or seller. Hope this helps. 0 -
rhmc24 is correct that is more art than science, and there is some room for disagreement. The Blue Bood of Gun Values has a section in front on condition with examples of firearms in several % conditions. Note that there is no universal agreement on how to evaluate or describe condition. The NRA uses categories that are not stated in %. If you offer a firearm you describe as 99%, and as a collector I feel is is 95%, that could make the difference in whether I want it or not. If you describe a firearm in 75% codition, no one is likely to quibble if it is really 70%, because it is a shooter. If you are looking at selling a firearm on-line, the best way to go is include photos of the condition, dings and scratches. 0 -
Hello misskelly...
It is nothing more than simple black magic[:o)].
Seriously now, it takes many years of looking at and handling all types of firearms, seeing them in different states of condition, and putting them side-by-side when possible. With Winchesters (my personal forte), one method that sometimes helps, is to remove the forestock and/or buttstock. Most of the time, the steel hidden/protected by the stocks will have very little wear to the finish, and it can be used to compare against the non-protected surfaces. One of the many challenges involved with evaluating old Winchester firearms, is to first determine when it was made, and from there, what type of bluing it should have... Winchester changed their bluing methods & types several times over the years, and they used different bluing solutions for different types (alloys) of barrel steel. Knowing all of that, it has helped me to identify "restored/refinished" guns that are claimed to be original.
As several others have stated, it really is an acquired "art" to evaluate the "condition" of an old firearm, and most times, no two people will come up with the same answer as to what the "graded" condition really is. Usually, if it is someone else looking at your gun, it is lower than you think, and if you are looking at someone else's gun, the condition is higher than you think.
Bert H.
Real Men use a SINGLE-SHOT!0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
4 comments