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slow rust blueing

gunguy30_06
I've been reading the recent posts on rust blueing with alot of interest. Back in the 1960's when I was 15 I bought a Herters hot blueing system and used it for several of my cousins guns and my Nylon 66. Did it on my Moms kitchen stove. I was very happy with the results. Now the same kind of system-tanks and crystals etc seem to cost some pretty big bucks. I ordered the Browning and blueing book yesterday that was mentioned in one of these threads. I also read all the links. If I do my part what kind of results can I expect? For example I have a Rem 700 Adl that I bought new in 1971 and want to re-blue and re-stock. How would-if I do my part-the slow rust blue compare to the original 1971 Rem blue? I read in one of the links that the rust blue cures for 90 days and after that will lose some of its luster. Very interested in trying this but just have a few questions.
Dave
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Comments

8 comments

Date Votes
  • gunguy30_06
    Hi all.

    I am looking for some tips to slow rust blue an old mauser sporter that I have. I've never slow rust blued before... and I have searched on this sight and saw some good tips (Nononesense has great info as usual), but still have a few more questions.

    My questions that remain are:

    I'm planning on leaving the barrel attached to the reciever for the blueing process. I'm not sure if there are any pro's or cons to this in the rust blue process?

    As far as blueing inside the reciever - how crazy should I go there? Of course the barrel is going to be blocked off, but it seems to me that the innards of the reciever are going to be hard to rust blue, and card. (in comparison to cold blueing or hot blueing)
    Any tips or tricks for dealing with that area?

    And, I guess my final question is.. what is your favorite rust blue chemiical? Any favorites, anything to stay away from?

    Thanks!
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  • BT99
    Contact Brownells by phone, can get the number from Brownells.com
    Ask for the Tech Staff and ask the questions. They also have the rust blue.
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  • Hang-Fire1
    Try this site gunguy:

    http://www.winrest.com/

    http://www.libertybelles.org
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  • mrbruce
    Slow rust bluing gives a very nice blue if done properly, but will take alot of time, but time well spent for sure.
    Do all the polishing by hand to further the job.
    Do a search and pick one that you like the best.

    Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.
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  • TRAP55
    Detailed step by step instructions.
    http://www.winrest.com/blueinstructions.html

    7_2_120.gif
    "Aim small, Miss small"
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  • shooter93
    I've rust blued countless firearms using Pilkington rust blue from Brownells. It works very well. You must hand polish to around 320 grit or you can glass bead using very fine beads. Do not buff the metal on a wheel. They recommend de-ionized water.....ie...distilled but when I couldn't find it in quanity I've used bottled spring water with no troubles. I blow them dry as I take them from the water then "card" them off with 0000 steel wool. You keep giving it coats till it looks right and done, then I give it one more. That's between 5 to 7 for me. There is nothing like it when it's done and nothing wears like it either. It never looks bad as it wears...just distinguished.
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  • v35
    Thanks, I appreciated that.
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  • dljacko
    Here in Australia we have a limited suply of products so when I have to finish an old firearm I usually use Birchwood Casey's plum brown. Most old firearms were actually browned and not blued using an old English method of slow rust where the arm treated was scrubbed down each day and treated again until it reached the required texture. I have found that the Birchwood Casey stuff works well. Just follow the instructions. Cheers, Jacko.
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