Tips needed for buying a new used revolver
I have really gotten the bug for S&W revolvers. I am pretty much a babe in the woods when it comes to telling if it is having problems prior to purchase. What should you look for when buying a used revolver? Any info appreciated..............Joe
joe
joe
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I have bought a few, here's what I do:
Check the basic timing by puting a pencil down the barrel and through the cylinder till it stops.
Make sure the cylinder locks up tight when the hammer is pulled back
Remove the stocks to check for rust, nickel damage and for the original SN on stocks
Look down the barrel for fowling, pits and rust
Look for signs of a reblue, re-nickel
If it is a "special" S&W like a triple lock, registered magnum or unregistered magnum, get it to someone who is competent to check it out. Prices on true collector S&W's has recently gone sky high. I am starting to see more collector grade revolvers with the factory letter.
I got the bug also, but my budget only lets me pick up the lower end of the S&W line like M19's, a M48, a M34 (nickel) and a couple of M&P's M10's. Good luck in your quest. Most of the older S&W's were rock solid.
Worry is the interest humans pay on the debt of miscalculation.0 -
Originally posted by Robin
I have bought a few, here's what I do:
Check the basic timing by puting a pencil down the barrel and through the cylinder till it stops.
Sorry...but what do you mean with timing? What do I find out with the pencil along the barrel? Thank you.
Breech0 -
I think he means checking chamber and bore alignment but a pencil will not accurately demonstrate alignment. Timing and correct cylinder advance are checked by working the action and making sure the cylinder stops correctly and locks properly when the gun is cocked. Check the cylinder stop (the little prong on the frame beneath the cylinder that engages the notches in the cylinder) for excessive wear (not necessarily a deal breaker because they can usually be replaced). On a S&W, the cylinder should lock tight (no rotational play) when the gun is cocked. When its open, check the top edge of the hand for excessive wear (the hand is the part in the recoil shield that moves up and down when the gun is cocked, to advance the cylinder - here again, not necessarily a deal breaker because they too can usually be replaced pretty easily by a competent gunsmith). Also, check to make sure the cradle (the part that holds the cylinder and swings out when opening the revolver) isn't loose and wobbly, that the cylinder release works smoothly and that the cylinder rotates freely and smoothly when the gun is open. Also, work the ejector to make sure it operates smoothly. Close the revolver back up and make sure the cradle latches correctly and firmly. If all that is true then its probably an all right revolver.
BTW, when the open cylinder is rotated, if it makes a whirring noise like in the movies, there's something seriously wrong with the gun [;)]0 -
Forthorseman said "On a S&W, the cylinder should lock tight (no rotational play) when the gun is cocked."
Just a fine point, virtually any revolver will exibit some rotational play in the cylinder when the hammer is cocked. Just make sure it isn't excessive.[:)]
257 fan0 -
Good point, Billsdadandson 0 -
I was once a huge S&W fan. I have found most (most all I have seen) revolvers will display some, at least a bit of cylinder play when the hammer is cocked. My personal check for lock-up is to pull the trigger back and, with trigger held back, lower the hammer gently to the fire position (don't wanna get into another dry fire discussion). With the trigger held back and the hammer lowered, this will most accurately indicate the actual lock-up at the time the round is fired. Many revolvers I have seen (especially S&W) will display a tighter lock-up at this point than simply checking with the hammer cocked.
For those who have not tried it this way, try it and see if you come to the same conclusion.
I have bought a few stainless versions that looked to have a terrible bore. Thought they were shot out. But some dilligent cleaning really did wonders on them.
MEMBER SINCE 10/24/1999.
To err is human, to moo is bovine.0 -
Worked like a charm boeboe. Just tried that on my 64 and it did indeed lock tight with trigger held at full pull and hammer let down (and no I didn't dry fire it [;)]). Of course now I'll have to go through all my Smiths to see if it holds true for all. They're all in really good condition so I imagine it will. Thanks for the tip. 0 -
Seems to be true of modern double action Colt revolvers as well. 0 -
Alot of good advice on mechanics of gun.. However the first thing I look at is its overall appearance. Is it blued? look for a ring around the cylinder and wear if it has been holstered. Because, if you buy it and decide you dont want it now you have to sell it to someone else. If the gun looks bad or looks like someone has tinkered with the screw heads or tried to cold blue it....run from it. there are too many cherrys out there to get a lemon. 0 -
Greetings from the rainy and cold south hemisphere..on the way to Antartica....[:D]
Just today morning I checked a spanish Llama Comanche 38sp. All the defects were there. Loose cylinder, radial play, loose cradle and badly wear on the blue. Anyway there customers for it, incredibly.....After reading this post I can really check the guns are on my hands and reject the most....Thanks.
Breech0
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