Treatment of new brass
I have some new Winchester 22-250 brass. Should I size, champher, trim , clean flash holes and weigh them before firing for the first time? OR; do I load a light load and fire form them before doing all the sorting work.
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bpost1958, how far do you want to take this? what type of rifle?
here is my standard proceedure.
1 seperate brass by weights
2 divide brass into 2 lots of 50 (unless any defective cases get chunked) that should be a deviation of only 2-4% weight
3 size cases
4 turn necks, but if this step will not take place, then skip it.
5 uniform primer pockets
6 deburr flash holes if not lapua or norma
7 chamfor case mouth
8 prime
9 charge
10 seat
11 fire
12 resize, deprime
13 find shortest case and trim them all to match (this I do after fireforming the cases to the chamber so that they will all have blown the outside dimensions out to match and pushed the shoulders out to match, now as the brass shrinks from the neck to make up for the expansion, the cases become much more uniform in length, so trimming after fireforming uniforms them more closely)
14 re-weigh them all and you will find that your spread across all the cases has lessened. Now if you wish you can re-seperate into 2 closer lots.
14-b you could remove the decapping pin prior to this step so that after trimming and having uniformed the length, as well as outside/inside dimensions, you CAN if you want to, run the internal capacity test with water and a scale. Which would allow you to pick the best 50 cases in the bunch for internal capacity uniformity and use them for strict accuracy work
15 start working the loads.
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
Got Balistics?0 -
Mr Post.
Can you shoot good enough to tell the difference, if you dew awl that ?
Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.0 -
I defer to JustC...but I usually just load them up the first time around. They come from the factory pre-formed. After the first firing, you can get as complicated as you want...just my .02...which is probably worth 1/100th of JustC's .02...so take it for that![;)][:)]
Eric
All American Arms Company
www.galleryofguns.com
VIP Code: AAAC
Veteran Owned and Operated0 -
[8D]Yo bpost, I'm not trying for benchrest consistency, but my new Winchester .243 cases (sale Midway) are -at random- within less than 1% of All requirements for that case. So I'm fairly confident that my Weatherby will do better than the .507"(3)/70 gr BTHP/100yds that it does now with-unchecked Lellier & Bellot(cheap) cases. Of course I measured the powder (IMR 4831) and set oal at 2.690" and will extend it more with the new cases and AA2230c powder-I've also changed the scope from 3x9 to LEU 4x12,we'll see[:p][:p][:p][:D]
I'm only wearing Black untill they make something darker0 -
I have pretty much the same approach as JustC ecept that I do it a slightly different order: 1. flashole ream 2. Primer pocket uniform 3. neck ream-inside 4. neck size 5. Trim to length 6. champher inside and outside of neck 7. weigh and sort cases within .2grain 8. seat primer 9. add correct charge of powder 10. seat bullet to correct length 11. Box and label with full information. Since I don't shoot competition anymore, I don't do run out tests on my ammo. If the brass is Norma or Lapua I skip the primer pocket uniforming, neck reaming(inside or outside) and flashole reaming processes. Just my method and not binding on anyone but me. Jim 0 -
as per the other members I defer to my disclaimer.[:D] I have what my wife and probably most of the members would call an ANAL approach. I have to be down to the last .001" to compete, so I load every rifle that way, so I keep the "feel" for the process. For a hunting or even a non-custom rig, you can skip a BUNCH of my steps. You will not see a difference and I will even be the first to admit that. I turn necks ect on factory chambers just to keep in touch. in the back of my mind, if that adds confidence, the I see it on paper.
The quick and dirty,
weigh
sort
uniform pockets
deburr flash holes
trim
chamfor/deburr
prime
charge
seat
shoot.
forget my other suggestions.[;)]
after the first firing, I suggest a search on "partial full length" sizing. This method seems to produce very solid results.
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
Got Balistics?0 -
As JustC said- then get anal. If this is for one gun, neck size only after your first firing, about 1/8" your 22-250 will like that. I hope I get input on the neck size depth. Out of 4, .22-250's 1/8 seems to be the sweet spot. (forgot to add 55gr sp's)
Thats 1 Savage 112
& 3 Rem's 700's and my 40x's
NRA Life Endowment Member0 -
quote:Originally posted by mrbruce
Mr Post.
Can you shoot good enough to tell the difference, if you dew awl that ?
Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.
Only offhand at 500 yards with an egg as the target!!!!!!0 -
quote:Originally posted by bpost1958
quote:Originally posted by mrbruce
Mr Post.
Can you shoot good enough to tell the difference, if you dew awl that ?
Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.
Only offhand at 500 yards with an egg as the target!!!!!!
Ewe must be talking about OSTRICH eggs then [:D]
Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.0 -
500yds is just 100yds closer than the starting line for our shoots!
600, 800, 1000 and 1200 are our distances, and most of us start with all the folderol JustC does; THEN we get ANAL!
Try finding a lot of primers that's almost 7 years old just because it shot so well, or a certain lot of powder, or setting aside 2 cases in 15 that weigh exactly the same, or reloading one at a time for hours on end sitting right next to a Dillon RL550B!
"Qui non est hodie cras minus aptus erit" --OVID0
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