EpoxyAdhesives for gun stock repairs
To Gentleman that repair gunstocks - Brownell's Acra-Weld was such a good product and very convient to use, even a very small amount. They have dropped the two tube package for their new gun mixed Acra-Weld and mixing tubes. No doubt they have a better product but if you need a very small amount you must use a mixing tube. Is there a name brand clear epoxy available at local stores that will make a strong bond suitable for gun stock repair that is more economical to use? Hope some of you excellant artist will give me advise at - jclane40@yahoo.com Thanks very much for your help.
Dr. J. Curtis Lane
Dr. J. Curtis Lane
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Walmart and various hardware stores sell a clear epoxy called Two Ton, available in regular and five minute types. I recco the regular. It needs several hours to set up and about 24 hours for curing. You can hasten the setup to about an hour and a half by putting the job under a heat lamp, just hot enough that if feels pretty warm to the touch but not painful. To repair cracks that are difficult to get glue into, heat the work as described and put the glue on the crack. The heat will cause the glue to thin like water or alcohol and will flow down into the crack. Keep putting it on till the crack won't take any more glue. Then wipe off the surface and allow the glue to set, either in time or with the heat lamp. On some kinds of work you may want to clamp the crack whle it is setting up. Success depends on reasonably clean gluing surfaces. Suggest try the procedure on scrap beforehand to get some experience. 0 -
Ive had best results in repairing stocks with Brownells acra-gel. The same as used for bedding an action. You get dye in the kit that you can use to color it to try to match the wood. You can mix walnut dust with it to fill gaps or missing wood. If possible I go inside the stock and drill a small (1/8 in usually) hole through the center of the crack ,lengthwise not crosswise that will be invisible from the outside .Fill the hole with the gel then insert a pin of metal into it, this forces the epoxy to flow thru the crack. Clamp it tightly while it sets ,the pin is locked inside and makes it extremely strong.
If the crack goes back together tightly without any wood fiber missing along the outside edges ( try it by clamping before you glue) then I put a little vaseline on the wood along the edge of the crack. when the epoxy flows out under clamping it wont stick to the outer side ,makes cleanup easy, If there is wood missing then let the epoxy and sanding dust mixture flow into the gaps and set up (no Vaseline) .After it cures sand it smooth and refinish to match as close as possible. When you cant use the hole drilling method just work the gel into it as thorough as you can and use the same treatment,
Some bad or multiple cracks running together have to be done in more than one session ,clamp one part and get it together and then another.
If you are artistic and the wood has some varying color in it often by using the dye and dust mixture you can make a gap or break look like a swirl of color in the grain .0 -
DSC offers some very good 'technique' suggestions to which I would add: fiberglass (such as from an old fishing rod) is very good to use as an insert to add strength to a repair, floor wax applied with a Q tip is good to inhibit epoxy bonding, epoxy fares better with only firm clamping, just enough to close the edges, rather than extremely tight. Epoxy tolerates addition of most any color, not water based, to get a desired shade of filler for missing wood. Additions such as color and wood sawdust can give a very good color match but with possible effect to strength. Do some experimenting to get a feel for the job.
Been there! Done that!0 -
For more choices go to this website:
http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en
Your mileage may vary.
"Every time a system is made foolproof - a new class of fool emerges."
Prod Harris
"If you ain't got pictures, I wasn't there."0
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