Tommy 2 pockets
The thread on the BP revolving rifle was locked before I could comment on the "chain fire" scenario that was brought up.
I don't know if you have any experience with black powder or not. I shoot an 1860 Colt Army replica as well as a flint Kentucky pistol and Hawken rifle.
When shooting BP, the bullet or ball needs to be seated tight to the powder. BP is an explosive and not a propellant and any space can raise the pressure and cause failure of the cylinder. Some people use wonder wads between powder and ball. I've done this but they take up too much space that could be used for powder.
Someone said that the Remington will take a 32 gr. charge, I doubt this as this amount of powder was the charge for the Walker, Better to start with 20 gr or so.
Chain fires occur when a spark the fired round gets behind the ball in an adjacent chamber and fires it "out of battery" for the purpose of this discussion. They have been known to involve the remaining 5 chambers after the first round is detonated. If you ever saw "Dirty Little Billy" when the kid and his pal get into the saloon fight, the round Billy tries to fire depicts a chain fire. I've known a few people who have experienced this and it is not pleasant. I do not know of anyone who was grievously injured but it is certainly possible. Chain fires are PREVENTED by sealing the chamber mouth with Crisco or axle grease after loading. This precaution and tight fitting caps are all one needs.
Many enthusiasts shoot cap and ball revolvers safely. I'd be willing to bet that the local cowboy action shooters have a few there.
This page is one of 25 pages on the site that offers bullet molds for the .44 as well as many BP guns and other supplies http://trackofthewolf.com/categories/tableList.aspx?catID=18&subID=126&styleID=982 .
"No taxation without representation"
I don't know if you have any experience with black powder or not. I shoot an 1860 Colt Army replica as well as a flint Kentucky pistol and Hawken rifle.
When shooting BP, the bullet or ball needs to be seated tight to the powder. BP is an explosive and not a propellant and any space can raise the pressure and cause failure of the cylinder. Some people use wonder wads between powder and ball. I've done this but they take up too much space that could be used for powder.
Someone said that the Remington will take a 32 gr. charge, I doubt this as this amount of powder was the charge for the Walker, Better to start with 20 gr or so.
Chain fires occur when a spark the fired round gets behind the ball in an adjacent chamber and fires it "out of battery" for the purpose of this discussion. They have been known to involve the remaining 5 chambers after the first round is detonated. If you ever saw "Dirty Little Billy" when the kid and his pal get into the saloon fight, the round Billy tries to fire depicts a chain fire. I've known a few people who have experienced this and it is not pleasant. I do not know of anyone who was grievously injured but it is certainly possible. Chain fires are PREVENTED by sealing the chamber mouth with Crisco or axle grease after loading. This precaution and tight fitting caps are all one needs.
Many enthusiasts shoot cap and ball revolvers safely. I'd be willing to bet that the local cowboy action shooters have a few there.
This page is one of 25 pages on the site that offers bullet molds for the .44 as well as many BP guns and other supplies http://trackofthewolf.com/categories/tableList.aspx?catID=18&subID=126&styleID=982 .
"No taxation without representation"
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I agree that the Crisco over the ball is a good idea, especially as a lube and fouling softener, but I can't imagine 19th century soldiers or anyone else doing this. I know that some cased Colt's have loading instructions pasted inside the cover. I have never see one up close, do they mention this potential problem? It is my belief that if the right size ball is used so that it shaves a fine ring of lead when rammed into the cylinder, it forms a watertight seal that would also not permit a sympathetic detonation from the front end. I suspect these multiple discharges are caused by using the wrong sized ball, cracked cylinders, or most likely, loose caps. I have an 1970s era Puberty 1962 Colt Police. The nipples are very small and even #10 caps have to be crimped a little just to get them to stay on. I would change them if I could get them out! So I don't shoot this one. I have a pair of Flli Pietta '51 Navies and have fired hundreds of rounds through them without using any grease. Maybe my time will come, but I don't think so. 0 -
Thanks for your concern. I was only looking at the gun as investment, I don't own or shoot smoke poles.
If it moves, salute it. If it doesn't move, pick it up. If you can't pick it up, paint it.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Hansenw
I agree that the Crisco over the ball is a good idea, especially as a lube and fouling softener, but I can't imagine 19th century soldiers or anyone else doing this. I know that some cased Colt's have loading instructions pasted inside the cover. I have never see one up close, do they mention this potential problem? It is my belief that if the right size ball is used so that it shaves a fine ring of lead when rammed into the cylinder, it forms a watertight seal that would also not permit a sympathetic detonation from the front end. I suspect these multiple discharges are caused by using the wrong sized ball, cracked cylinders, or most likely, loose caps. I have an 1970s era Puberty 1962 Colt Police. The nipples are very small and even #10 caps have to be crimped a little just to get them to stay on. I would change them if I could get them out! So I don't shoot this one. I have a pair of Flli Pietta '51 Navies and have fired hundreds of rounds through them without using any grease. Maybe my time will come, but I don't think so.
I've never had a chain fire and also believe that the ball is usually tight enough to seal the chamber. I have noticed that, sometimes, that "ring" you refer to is really a string, suggesting that a dent in the right place on the ball has interrupted the seal. One guy on another forum said that the chamber shouldn't shave a ring of lead and recommended gently chamfering the chamber mouth with fine emery paper around a marble until it compresses the ball rather than shaving it.
Wonder wads claim to prevent chain fires when used under the ball but I think they take too much room that could be used for powder. They do happen and have happened to friends of mine from BP forums. As far as any real injury, I have never heard of one. Crisco is a good safeguard, as are conicals. Crisco turns to oil when it's hot out, too so watch for that. Bearing grease is probably better.
As far as a disclaimer on the original Colt boxes, I really doubt that. I'm sure everyone was so close to their guns back then that it was assumed that everyone knew the hazard. Besides, people were used to getting hurt back then. Nor was our society as litigious then.
I searched Cap and ball chain fire and came up with a number of hits. One says that ill fitting caps were the principle cause which makes sense if you know what one looks like after firing.
http://hunting.about.com/od/blackpowder/l/aa_loadcbrev_b.htm
http://www.civilwarguns.com/9907b.html
http://hunting.about.com/library/weekly/aa_loadcbrev_c.htm"No taxation without representation"0 -
I have a BP revolver that has small nipples. I had the cylinder to the left of the barrel fire when the one under hammer fired. I was using Crisco over bullet so it had to be the loose cap causing it. Went to smaller cap and problem, was solved.
Keep Your Powder Dry
The only criminal class that is native to the United States is congress.
MARK TWAIN0
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