Barrel contour
I liked the looks of the Winchester model 70 featherweight so
much I bought one in 7mm-08. After using it a while, I decided
the action was too long, the trigger needed work, and the safety was
stiff and noisy. Guess I just don't really like Winchester
actions!
I have a nice tang safety. Ruger short action and would like to
make up a clone of the Winchester featherweight in 7mm-08. I
did like the cartridge!
Now for the question...a friend told me a featherweight barrel
contour is a mistake, and that it will bend like a pretzel as
it heats up. Any info or input on this subject? I found a
barrel maker web site which suggests that an incorrect barrel break-in process can cause a barrel to warp?
The rifle will be used on smallish deer within 100 yds in
mountainous terrain.
much I bought one in 7mm-08. After using it a while, I decided
the action was too long, the trigger needed work, and the safety was
stiff and noisy. Guess I just don't really like Winchester
actions!
I have a nice tang safety. Ruger short action and would like to
make up a clone of the Winchester featherweight in 7mm-08. I
did like the cartridge!
Now for the question...a friend told me a featherweight barrel
contour is a mistake, and that it will bend like a pretzel as
it heats up. Any info or input on this subject? I found a
barrel maker web site which suggests that an incorrect barrel break-in process can cause a barrel to warp?
The rifle will be used on smallish deer within 100 yds in
mountainous terrain.
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Thats true with any barrel if it heats up to much it will bend. You would have to blow though quite a few rounds very quickly to get it hot enough which with a deer rifle your not likly to do. 0 -
The AFTERMARKET barrels by QUALITY barrel makers won't exibit this trait anywhere near as much as the factory barrels. A good barrel blank will be STRESS RELEIVED by the manufacturer, insuring both straightness and resistance to warpage as heat is created. The stress releief makes a huge difference (look at any competition rifle and ask the owner about his barrel) FYI,...most factory barrels are FAR from straight to begin with. You REALLY need to see one indexed and spun on the lathe to see how poorly they are machined.
Since you are rebarreling anyway, get a good blank (PacNor, Lilja, Kreiger, Hart, Shilen, Broughton, Border, Douglass XX, etc) These barrels will far outshoot any factory barrel in the same contour. If you have to match the blueing to your action, then buy a Chrome-moly blank and have the smith blue it to match. I suggest a stainless blank, and have it bead blasted to the dull grey finish so your quary won't see it very easily. The stainless blanks are much easier to clean, require far less maintanance, and have what I feel to be better life expectancy due to stainless steel having a higher lubricity factor.
The contour you are looking for would be either a #1 or #2 contour (or could be called "sporter" contour). The websites of the manufacturers I listed will all have contour charts for you to look at before ordering.
If you go with something like an Adams and Bennett or Shaw barrel,..buyer beware,..these are often only as good as the factory barrel and sometimes worse.
Here is a number for you to call and tell Mike I sent you (Justin)
Mike Ruggiero
Broad Creek Rifle Works
302-875-5446
Mike is a wizard with Rugers and may have a LARGE quantity of ruger take-off barrels in his shop (brand new) as he buys rugers NIB and customizes them then sells them. He will probably have a large selection of calibers sitting in the barrel rack ready to go on your action. He has built several ruger #1's for John Sundra the writer, and has been praised my John in several articles. Mike's work is beyond reproach, he builds my competition rifles[;)] Most of these barrels will be stainless too[:p]
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
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