CLeaning corrosive ammo?
Alright, I know you clean it with hot soapy water first, then after that dries clean like regular. My question is, what kind of soap do I use?
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I use Ajax but Dawn works also. 0 -
I have long since switched to S & B ammo for my no.1 mkIII, but I have used corrosive ammo in my rifle. You can try Hoppes gun solvent with bronze brush; then Hoppes gunsolvent with patches; then a dry cloth; then lightly oil with break free, you will have good results. As for soap I can not help you there caused I have never used any in my gun.
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- Benjamin Franklin0 -
Any liquid dish soap will work. 0 -
A couple of drops of Ivory Liquid in a quart of hot water does fine. Then flush with plain hot water. 0 -
I have tried several things. Some solvents, such as blackpowder solvent or WW2 GI solvent are made for removing salt, which is what you want to do, and those will work fine. Hot soapy water is fine. It doesn't need to be hot really, but if boiling will flash dry and cause less headaches. So I usually rest the muzzle in a can of boiling water, scrub with a patch from the breech back and forth a few times, let the gunk run out, then brush with a wet brush, then dry out and use regular solvent. Adds maybe 2 minutes to the cleaning routine and works every time.
"...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf0 -
quote:I have long since switched to S & B ammo for my no.1 mkIII, but I have used corrosive ammo in my rifle. You can try Hoppes gun solvent with bronze brush; then Hoppes gunsolvent with patches; then a dry cloth; then lightly oil with break free, you will have good results. As for soap I can not help you there caused I have never used any in my gun.
I have always heard that Hoppes will not dissolve and remove the salts from corrosive primers since it is oil based, and you need either a water based solvent or actual water to adequately remove the salts.0 -
As user jnmiller75 suggests, you can use soapy water, but the primers are the least of your worries. As in the no.1 MKIII it is not gunpowder at all but contains the propellent known as cordite(corrosive propellent). You will need a very powerful cleaner rather than just soapy water. But do not worry very few rounds are still corosive (7.62x25, .303 british...just to name a few). You mostly see that from vintage war surplus. Like in my .303 british I bought in S & B ammo and it is not corrosive, but functions just as well as the origional. If you still want a water based solvent (forget the name, but I used hoppes and others with good results)I am sure you can find one without too much trouble.
" Those who give up a little freedom for temporary security, deserve neither freedom nor security "
- Benjamin Franklin0 -
"primers are the least of your worries."
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quote:Originally posted by allen griggs
"primers are the least of your worries."
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Got me. Perhaps as cordite is errosive as well as the corrosive primers, ie. very hot burning?
"...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf0 -
I'm with allen griggs & jonk on this one! Cordite is simply one of the earliest forms of smokeless powder. Rather than graphite coated smaller granules, it is long thin strands of bare nitrocelluous (sp) powder, intrinsically no more corrosive than any other smokeless powder. I've never shot much of it and perhaps it leaves more residues which could attract / absorb moisture, but these are not the hygroscopic metal salts which form from the residues of corrosive primers and oxidize steel in a short time. Corrosive primers are the chief evil here, not the smokeless powder.
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