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puzzling 1911 question

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8 comments

  • Pearyw
    I would take a look at the way the firing pin stop fits into the back of the extractor. It should be a snug fit that will not let the extractor move forward or reverse or rotate. You may need a new extractor or a firing pin stop. I would purchase a good quality extractor such as a Wilson. I use extended ejectors in standard slides. The only problem that you might have is a loaded round may not eject. I would try it. You probably need a new recoil spring in gun #2. Standard is a 16 #, I usually use 17# for general use. It depends on how hot the ammo is. Recoil springs last about 3000 rounds.
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  • jsergovic
    #1 If it is not extracting, and the breech face is clean, I'd try a new extractor.
    Here are some extractor tuning tips by Bill Wilson http://www.m1911.org/technic2.htm
    Lowered port? Is it a "Match" grade gun?

    #2 Assuming the ejector isn't damaged or altered, I'd try a new extractor too.

    Another article on extractors: http://www.gunshopfinder.com/articles/1911extractor.html

    They are, however, $25-some bucks apiece.
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=20695&title=1911+AUTO+EXTRACTOR

    Good points, Pearyw. Also, if the spring was missing from the firing pin plunger, what would that do?
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  • 1911a1-fan
    Yes the firing pin stop is a often over looked component

    I use Wilson bullet proof components, and have never had a failure{knock's on wood}
    And I shoot a lot 2,000 to 3,000 a month
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  • perry shooter
    Hello please dont laugh but have you cleaned the hole in the slide that the extractor fits in. This can get filled up with burnt powder . When this happens the "dog knot" in the middle of the extractor holds the hook from moving all the way toward the fireing pin.Some time you can stone this dog knot but don't over do it/ "PRAISE THE HARDBALL GUN "
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  • gunguy30_06
    Last night was looking at both guns and i decided that i would try this to the extractor of gun #2. I didn't find this until this morning.

    If you have correct tension on the case when it is centered on the breechface, as described in (1) above and little to no tension at all, with the case being pulled down approx. .075 - .100", you need to bring the extractor groove closer to the firing pin hole.

    This is done by removing a small amount of material at a time, from the locator pad, while maintaining the radius. Constantly check for correct tension, so that you don't take too much material off. See sketch below.

    I did this without knowing it was a sound solution, but i tried it this morning and it worked!!!!
    first i tried it with i though would be sufficient ejector tension, but every single casing flew right by my head or over or into. Then i tried tighting the extractor tension, and then the casing all flew uniformly off to my rear left about 5 feet!!!!
    PERFECTO!

    As far as gun #1 i am going to tinker with finding a heavy tension for the extrator. I feel like extractor tension is a very overlooked when it comes to 1911's it determines,in part, to were your casings land. And i think that the tension is evern more important in older style non lowered models, with the shorter ejector.

    OH, and perrry shooter i didn't laugh, i checked and the hold was quite dirty, but not enough so that it would casue problems, at least that is was i think. But it did need a good cleaning.
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  • jsergovic
    The sketch referred to:

    technic2.jpg

    I get great pleasure when I take the slide al the way down, and get the grime out of every nook and cranny. Genuine Q-Tips only, soaked in Hoppes.
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  • mpolans
    Another possibility to consider that's easier (but more expensive) is to simply replace them with an Aftec extractor.
    Instead of relying on the curvature of the extractor to maintain tension, it uses two smaller springs acting on a separate piece inside the extractor tunnel to maintain pressure. They're pretty popular with IPSC shooters right now.
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  • RadCat
    quote:Originally posted by mpolans
    Another possibility to consider that's easier (but more expensive) is to simply replace them with an Aftec extractor.
    Instead of relying on the curvature of the extractor to maintain tension, it uses two smaller springs acting on a separate piece inside the extractor tunnel to maintain pressure. They're pretty popular with IPSC shooters right now.




    You are darn 'tooting right. Aftec extractors are the best thing to come down the 'pike to resolve extraction issues. I have a few competition 1911's and all are set-up with Aftec extractors.

    Some of us "shooters" are a little bit supersticious about cleaning our guns "too much". Usually if it is working fine, we leave them alone, but for superficial grunge. We just slap in a lttle bit more oil. Kind of using the new oil to push out the old crusty oil out.

    Recently I had extraction problems with an "Aftec extractor". I was besides myself, couldn't believe it. I mean, I had gone through a few thousand rounds without any malfunctions due to extractions!! What could be wrong? Upon disassembly, I had to fight to remove the extractor. It looked like the piston rings in an old two cycle cross flow outboard motor after fifteen years burning rich organic oil. In other, simpler words, "caked solid". The extractor tunnel was filled with "generations" of burnt powder remains. After cleaning it and reassembling the gun, (and taking the opportunity to clean the rest of the gun too) it worked perfectly again. [:D][:D][:D][8D][8D]

    I frown upon people "modifying" parts that worked fine previously and show no signs of breakage and wear. I smile when that happens and charge them for a new part to replace the one "butchered".

    Usually a little bit of tweaking in the right place/angle will work fine, and if not, chuck it in the garbage and start fresh.

    As for "ejection", very often the recoil spring doesn't get looked into when it should [V][V][;)][:D].

    ______________________________________________
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    "If it ain't broke, fix it anyway... make it better!" (RadCat)
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