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Question on Silver Soldering

ducky
I've decided to try silver soldering a front sight back onto one of my 1911s and would like to know if Solder-It Silver Bearing Solder Paste in the syringe will work fine. If not, are there any other recommendations on what kind of silver solder to use. Thanks in advance.
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Comments

10 comments

Date Votes
  • BT99
    I have used several types of soldering paste. Works fine. Make sure both parts are down to bare metal and clead. Put some of the soldering past on the sight or sight ramp. Clamp it it place and apply the heat.
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  • cody45
    depends on the size of the "void". call the staff at Brownells and they will tell you what to use. I suggest a "low melt" product such as 450 degree or so.
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  • OleDuk
    ducky, a silver bearing solder such as you mention is probably 95% tin and 5% silver. It's not silver solder. I use soft solders (tin-lead) in a lot of places, but it might not work for this application. Try it and see, though, won't cost much to try it. This is a low temperature solder. Silver solders require a red heat.
    Good luck,
    OleDuk[:)][:)]

    "Disperse you Rebels; Damn you,throw down your arms and disperse!"
    British Major John Pitcairn, April 19, 1775. He fell at Bunker Hill two months later.
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  • rwfixem
    IF you have not silver soldered before, DO NOT attempt this on your 1911 slide. If you must do this please practice first. This is not something you just pick up the torch and do.
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  • tobefree
    quote:Originally posted by rwfixem
    IF you have not silver soldered before, DO NOT attempt this on your 1911 slide. If you must do this please practice first. This is not something you just pick up the torch and do.




    I agree 100%. This is something I do at work. I recommend a lot of practice before you attempt this on a firearm. Silver solder come in several different types and not all are suited for this operation. It is expensive too. Also bearing solder paste? We use a black liquid silver solder flux at work that works great for our needs. Never Bearind solder paste. I don't know if it will work smoothly. Brownells has everything that you need to do this Job right. And they also have comple insructins for using almost every product they sell in PDF format(free download).
    If you are still in a mind to tri this remember one thing, everyone that I have ever seen applies to much the first time , they usually get it too hot, and they rarely get the parts heated evenly. An propane torch is recommended over oxy/acetelene. Oh yea, cleaning up big goobers of solder in a tight place isn't fun.
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  • robkelly2242
    Yes. Get practice 1st. Go to a jewelers supply to get the stuff. You need flux(for silver soldering, NOT brazing). I use Superior. Also need solder. Best for you is Easy Flo or similar, melts 1145*F, 45% silver. The old stuff with cadmium is OK as long as you don"t do it for a living.

    Hints: Both pieced of metal must be CLEAN! Put the flux on 1st, heat the metal till the flux melts. Don't put the flame on the flux. Add a small piece of solder to one of the fluxed parts. Heat the metal not the solder till it melts. Put the 2 pieces together, heat the metal till the solder melts and joins. Cool in air. This will discolor the slide, you may have to reblue. The slide is not hardened, so don't worry about changing the temper, it's not important here.
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  • breechman
    Hello, I just almost ruined a shotgun barrel silver soldering a front sight. Be sure you use a low melting solder and the right flux. Silver solder sheets are better than rods. Just place a piece in between the bottom sight and the barrel surface. Apply flux just in the part to be joined and get it tight with wire or clamps. Heat it with the flame but not directly. When the silver becomes bright it is time to let it cold. Now you have a long re finishing job. Luck!

    Breech
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  • lcflcf
    Good info I learned alot reading this post, Les
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  • PA Shootist
    Silver solder alloys vary widely in silver content, alloying ingredients, and melting temperatures. Be sure to use a flux recommended by the manufacturer of the silver solder (I am more used to calling these "silver brazing alloys"). Each flux must be active chemically at the melting point of the alloy it is used with. And, the flux is active only once, as the temperature rises. If you overheat, the flux has already passed through its active range and lost its chemical reaction, and cannot function to do its job. For example, a flux designed to be chemically active at 950 degrees + or - maybe 25 degrees farenheit is useless for a brazing alloy that melts at 1050 degrees.

    Low-temperature alloys, e.g. 5% silver, 95% lead, lead-tin, etc., are called "solders" if the melting point is below 800 degrees Farenheit. Alloys which melt above 800 degrees Farenheit are called "brazing alloys"; they still typically melt below the melting point of the pieces they are used to join, such as steel and stainless steel parts. The bond of the brazing alloys is different also, in that the brazing filler alloy actually penetrates into the surface of the materials joined. Solders freeze into the surface irregularities only, and don't penetrate the surface at all. The low-temp solders can have their place depending on the parts and the joint, they just won't have as strong a bond.

    Then there is the type of fluidity of the alloys; some are very thin-flowing and need a very close parts fit, and others will fill some gap. Again, consult a manual issued by any of the alloy manufacturers.

    As in so many jobs, the secret is the preparation prior to joing the parts. Clean, clean, clean! Then use proper heat source to not overheat the base materials, but hot enough to bring the parts to the correct temperatures.
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  • ducky
    I really appreciate the advice and words of caution from all of you. Many thanks for your help.
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