Garand
A friend's father passed away last month and he is offering me a Garand from the estate. It has a Springfield receiver that has had the serial number removed and a new number stamped in it's place. I am a little leery of this. Is there any reason to turn the offer down? The gun looks like an arsenal rebuild with a refinished stock, and comes with a bayonet. I know it is not a collector, but would make a good shooter.
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I have a .308 Garand and the gas cylinder is out of spec and op rod piston is also out of spec. Should I try to get the same vintage gas cylinder? Who be good to replace the piston on op rod? Will this devalue the Garand any? 0 -
Who made your M1 rifle? If it was "CAI", destroy it before it has a chance to kill or maim you.
Otherwise, buy a copy of "The M1 Garand: Owner's Guide" by Scott A. Duff. Read the entire book & following & follow all instructions.
Neal0 -
Sounds like maybe a loose gas cylinder plug[?] Has happened to me before.. Maybe Mark C. has the answer. Lots of luck.
for GOD and COUNTRY
Vet0 -
WWIIVet is right. Check the gas cylinder plug, and be sure it's properly lubricted with Garand grease. (See below for how and where)
If you don't have any grease, I'm selling some. (shameless link)
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=30137835
M1 Garand: Lubricating
1. The Hammer: Lube the bolt camming lug on the top and the tops of the front hammer hooks.
2. The Trigger Assembly: Lube the "flat" that rides over the front hammer hooks and the sides of the trigger just below the "flat."
3. Lube the outside and inside of the lip on the stock ferrule.
4. Lube around the inside of the "C" shaped bottom of the lower band.
5. Lube the bottom of the barrel along the entire larger diameter of the chamber area.
6. The Receiver: Lube the channel for the op rod lug and on top just above it where the right bolt lug rides on it. Lube the channel for the left bolt lug. Lube the forward parts of both the right and left bolt lugs. Lube the right and left channels of the Follower and Slide Assembly. Lube the top curved portion of the safety bridge where the bolt rides over it. Lube the top inside portion of the rear of the receiver where the bolt travels to the rear.
7. The Bolt: Lube both lugs. Lube the top of the front and rear curved areas on the bolt. Do NOT lube the face of the bolt.
8. The Op Rod: Lube the top of the curved "saddle" that rides over the barrel. Lube the bottom and inside curved portion of the handle from the saddle to the rear lug. Lube the rear lug. Put a thick coat of grease in the cut out channel for the bolt lug, and that's the ONLY place you want a thick coating of grease.
9. The Bullet Guide: Lube the nose of the guide and inside the hole for the Follower Arm Pin.
10. On the Op Rod Catch Assembly: Lube the top of the leg or hook that engages the Op Rod Catch. Lube the Accelerator.
11. The Follower Arm: Lube the four posts. (The rear posts engage the Follower and Slide Assembly, and the front posts engage the Follower Rod.)
12. The Follower Arm Pin, aka Op Rod Catch Pin: Lube the diameter of the pin.
13. Op Rod Spring and Follower Rod: Rub some grease on your fingers and rub them over the length of the spring. Then dip the last three or four coils of the spring into a grease pot. Also, rub your greasy fingers over the sides of the Follower Rod and lube the hooks at the rear.
--- Master Gunnery Sgt. Gus Fisher
as written in the GCA Journal, Spring 2005
"The Greatest Battle Implement Ever Devised!"
-- Gen. George S. Patton
referring to the M1 Garand0 -
Don't mean to be dissen on the previous poster and his auctions, BUT the grease is available most everywhere ( autoparts stores, Home Depot, etc ) under the trade name Lubraplate, it also is sold under the generic name of "White Lithium Grease". Little bit goes a long way. Bought a 2 ounce tube 3 years ago, hasn't run out yet. 0 -
Elmer has contacted me directly; his rifle IS a CAI.
I explained to him that it is defective, & dangerous to shoot. He has decided to just put it away, & shoot only his real (USGI) M1 rifle.
Neal0 -
I am not familiar with CAI manufactured M-! What is it ?[?][?]
Keep Your Powder Dry
The only criminal class that is native to the United States is congress.
MARK TWAIN0 -
quote:Originally posted by GaBob
I am not familiar with CAI manufactured M-! What is it ?[?][?]
Keep Your Powder Dry
The only criminal class that is native to the United States is congress.
MARK TWAIN
CAI is Century Arms International. They are one of the largest firearms dealers/importers in the U.S. Unfortunately in the past they have sold some questionable rifles that have been assembled from surplus parts, done both here in the U.S. and abroad.
This is what nmyers is refering to. Apparently he has reservations about the quality and/or saftey of M 1 Grands that Century has sold in the past.0 -
CIA is not a manufacturer. What non G.I. spec parts need to be replaced? 0 -
Thanks Rufe Snow. That had me stumped.
Bob
Keep Your Powder Dry
The only criminal class that is native to the United States is congress.
MARK TWAIN0 -
CAI builds M1 rifles using newly-made receivers & used parts.
The greatest problem with these rifles is that the receivers are cast, & they are not dimensionally the same as USGI milspec receivers. So, holes are not drilled in the right places & other critical dimensions are incorrect. The factory assembles them by use of blunt force; a mallet & steel punches are needed by most owners to field strip them or put them together. (USGI rifles can be field stripped with your fingers.) Because of this, many CAI M1's will fire, but will not cycle.
I have not tested the hardness of CAI receivers, or measured the headspace. These are so critical in a high power rifle that I would not chance firing one; the quality of these rifles is too poor to risk my life firing one a few inches in front of my face.
Neal
"You get what you pay for, sometimes less."0 -
These guys would'nt steer ya wrong elmer, I would put it away in a dark hole somewhere and shoot your mil-spec M-1. Mark C and nmyers give sound advice on the M-1's, they have helped me before.[:D] 0
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