Iver Johnson Hammerless, bunch of ????
Still working on a project to restore to working condition some family heirlooms. One thing my Dad left was a couple of Iver Johnson Hammerless .38 S&W top-break revolvers. Done blame me for my Dad's chioce of firearms, I'm sure they did everything he wanted. One is nice, the other has been broker for years, cylinder wouldn't turn. Being the tinkerer I am, figured I'd get into it and fix it. The guts pretty much just fell out without an apparent order when I tore into it. Wow, what a box of junk I have now. I sure don't want to mess with the other one and have it end up in the same shape.
I obviously need assembly instructions to get this back together.
Of course, I also need some spare parts, mainly springs. Of course, on or two of the springs were bad when I took it apart. I checked Numrich arms, but they don't seem to have what I need specific to this particular model. They do have other Iver Johnson revolver parts. Are any of the parts (especially springs) interchangeable with other models?
Assuming I do get it back together, is there any reason I shouldn't shoot it with standard 38 S&W ammo?
MEMBER SINCE 10/24/1999
I obviously need assembly instructions to get this back together.
Of course, I also need some spare parts, mainly springs. Of course, on or two of the springs were bad when I took it apart. I checked Numrich arms, but they don't seem to have what I need specific to this particular model. They do have other Iver Johnson revolver parts. Are any of the parts (especially springs) interchangeable with other models?
Assuming I do get it back together, is there any reason I shouldn't shoot it with standard 38 S&W ammo?
MEMBER SINCE 10/24/1999
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my friend has one in something like 32 S&W. he ordered some ammo for it. it was discontinued or something and he had to pay some outrageous price for it. i would be kind of leary about it and try some powered down handloads just to make sure it could stand being shot. my buddies shot fire and particles of powder or maybe some of the piss poor quality ?Chrome? colored plating on it would fly off and hit you. if you decide not to shoot it, you won't be missing out on much. if you have shot any gun that is very innacurate then you have shot this gun. i don't remember if we even hit the target with it when we shot a box out of it. they are interesting to look at and all and work on, but beyond that, they are a waste of bullets.
When guns are outlawed, only outlaws will have guns.0 -
FOR PARTS YOU NEED TO KNOW THE SHIFT FOREMAN'S MOTHER-IN-LAWS MADEN NAME ON THE DATE AND TIME OF DAY IT WAS PRODUCED... (IN OTHER WORDS-GOOD LUCK). you have a pile-o-parts and i'd leave it at that. 0 -
A lot depends on when they were made as to what ammo is safe. I load for a S&W in 38 S&W that was made about 1885. It was made for black powder. I load rounds for it with Pyrodex. I have a couple of IJ made in the 1930's and they are ok with modern 38S&W ammo. I hand load for all of mine because I am cheap. Once you have the brass, it is a cheap round to load. Bullets are a problem as these are a .360" diameter bullet. I load 148 gr HBWC bullets about 2/3 of the way into the case. They will expand the base and shoot well in a 38 S&W. I load them with 2.9 gr of 231 powder. 0 -
boeboe...
The guy you want to contact is b.goforth Bill is a true expert with those old Iver Johnson and H & R firearms.
Bert H.
Real Men use a SINGLE-SHOT!0 -
boeboe,
in order to correctly identify your iver johnson revolvers i will need to know the serial number and letter code found on the left side of the grip frame. with that and any and all markings on the barrel i should be able to identify the model and year of manufacture. and from there decide if they are black or smokeless powder models. i might even be able to help with parts drawings.
bill0 -
Bill, serial number on the hammerless I need parts for is D51044. Thanks!
MEMBER SINCE 10/24/19990 -
boeboe,
the D letter code was used on the safety automatic revolver three times. twice of the second model and once on the third model. i will need to know the marking on the barrel and the bottom of the butt strap and what type of hammer spring it has in order to correctly identify the year of manufacture. it could be early second model 1899 are middle years 1901 or the third model would be 1911.
be aware that all the second models were manufactured for black powder cartridge pressures and are noot safe with modern ammo.
numrich arms (e-gunparts.com) has some parts for both the second and third models (they call them old and new model).
bill0 -
I should have any parts you need for this gun. When you figure out exactly what you need, post me a message and I'll get in touch with you. 0 -
Bill, the bottom of buttstrap appears to say PAT. AUG 30 (then unreadable) Then PAT S PENDING. Top of barrel says IVER JOHNSON ARMS AND CYCLE WORKS - FITCHBURG, MASS USA -
Hammer Spring appears to be one of the springs that was either missing or broke, as I don't have it. The inside of the grip strap would suggest it is a flat, or leaf spring, as there are serations on both front and back of the grip strap that would support the spring.
Assuming this is black powder version, would it be possible to have a friend who is into handloading load up a few rounds?
MEMBER SINCE 10/24/19990 -
boeboe,
i missed the exactdate by one year it is a third model manufactured in 1912.
bill0
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