1911 Ejector Staking
I have a Kimber Custom II. Overall I am satisfied with the gun, however I am putting some work into it (as any good 1911 owner should) and I want to replace the ejector to get rid of the MIM part that is already shaked itself loose. Does anyone know how to stake an ejector. I am trying to avoid a gunsmith because I want to do the work myself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys.
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The 1911's I've worked on and owned in the past, the ejectors weren't staked. The original ones were a interference fit in the frame with one small tranverse pin through the frame holding the ejector in place.
Use a small drift punch to remove the pin. Then clamp the ejector, ( upside down ) in soft vase jaws, and using a plastic hammer or brass drift separate the ejector from the frame, CAREFULLY.
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thanks for the help. I will examine it when I get home and see if that is the method used to secure it to the frame. Any particular manufacter of aftermarket parts you suggest? I used some Wilson Combat and am satisfied with them. Any other ideas for something that prevents malfunctions. ( the old ejector doesnt quite kick the casing from the chamber the rim is still under the extractor lip ). So basically whose part should I use? 0 -
The ejector is held onto the frame buy a cross pin However the gun will work 100% with out this pin for testing. The only problem is the ejector may be lost if you remove slide and then dturn frame upside down . I would go look at brownell's catalog and buy an EXTENDED ejector this will get the case out of the port earlier in the cycle . The extractor and ejector can both be tuned for best results. "PRAISE THE HARDBALL GUN" 0 -
Brownells has been my bedtime reading material for the past week. [:)] I think the ultra extended one is the way to go. That way I can fit it specifically for the needs of that gun 0 -
The extractor should let the case slide up the face of the slide on loading with out undue force or you get fail to feed jams however it should hold the case firm enough to make sure it does not drop off the slide face during recoil until it contacts the ejector. Take a small stone and slightly round the edge where the rim starts this contact with the extractor the "dog knot" along the shank of extrator can be stoned to let the hook extend further toward the fireing pin /center of shell. and the other side of this dog knot can be stoned to make sure there is no bind. Tension can be adjusted by forming the shank. If the nose of ejector is TOO long it can cause the case to ding the mouth too short ejector nose and light loads/ those DAMN buffers /too strong recoil spring/ limp wrist. can cause jams not getting case out of port. if this is a GI type slide you can lower the port to height of a GOLD CUP port and still be legal in NRA and BALL/CMP matches "PRAISE THE HARDBALL GUN" 0 -
what is the lightest spring i can get away with using, and still get reliable functioning. 0 -
The best way IMHO to get the right weight spring in a1911 type pistol is to load 1 round in the magazine install a fairly heavy spring fire the one round at this time the slide should stay open as the slide stop pin should have been activated by the magazine follower. If the slide does not stay back decrease the spring weight until the slide stays open this is the best weight to keep from beating up the GUN. The things that you need to be aware of is that buffers keep this from working because they will not let the slide go all the way back unless the spring is so weak that the slide slams back. If you have light loads you need light spring ,if you have a red dot mounted on the slide you need light spring because the parts that recoil to unlock the action are heavier.If you limp wrist the pistol or are thin /lightweight you need light weight spring .As you can see if you have all 3 of these things you need a VERY light spring but then the spring might be too weak to strip a round out of the magazine and load it into the chamber fully. Hope this helps. I have seen match guns that have polished feed ramps and frame rails work with springs as light as 10 pounds Get a wolff spring pack from your shooters friend BROWNELLS."PRAISE THE HARDBALL GUN" 0 -
quote:what is the lightest spring i can get away with using, and still get reliable functioning.
Perry always gives good advice on 1911's
As a rule lighter bullet = lighter spring ,most custom gun manufacturers are now going with 161/2 # springs to cover most factory ammo ,if you go lower than this you will risk frame damage by the pounding on the frame instead of the spring absorbing the recoil ,in addition to what perry stated sometimes you can choose a spring ,and only after a hundred rounds will you find out the spring is to heavy ,this is most common in lighter bullets ,which by nature have less recoil anyway0
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