Silver brazing a sight?
Hi again, can I solder a front sight on a rifle barrel using silver without damaging the factory tempering? Most of the sights comes silver brazed from the manufacturer so I think it is a choice doing it? Thank you.
Breech
Breech
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Hello Silver solder will be hot enough to damage the bluing but If the barrel is clean you can use rosen core soft solder and unless it takes a big knock it will hold the sight 0 -
Thank you. Now I have to find out what kind of soldering is the one you suggest as I have never hear it before. Thanks, JP.
Breech0 -
Rosin core is used in electronics soldering because the flux core of rosin is non-corrosive. Radio Shack or another "electronics" supply house should have some ... however I'm not all that certain that the new low/no lead solders work as well as the old style ... so if you have a small radio/tv repair shop near you see if they have some of the old style and if they will sell you some. 
If you only have time to do two things so-so, or one thing well ... do the one thing!0 -
Silver is the only way! Remove the old bluing, it is rust after all, solder away and give it a good touch up or have a crank blue it for ya'. 0 -
I would suggest that you use a Grade 5 silver solder, it is also referred to as easy-flow. This will attach your sight securely with only about an 1150 Deg. heating. This is the flow temp of this grade of silver. The heating and flux will remove your blueing which can be re-done with a good cold blue solution. You will have to use a soft flame and good flux such as Handy&Harmon brand. Good luck. 0 -
Silver is the way, and besides since when were barrels "tempered" thats a new one on me. 0 -
Several points worth thinking about. There is a 5% silver solder that is many times stronger than soft solder and works at around 450 degrees F. If your sight has some base area I would not consider hi-temp silver solder. A hazard not mentioned is that high temps can cause scaling of the surfaces and won't do the rifling or the appearance any good. If you must use the high temp silver solder you can protect the surfaces somewhat by a paste of sperm oil and lamp black. It tends to stay in place while heated and keep oxygen away from the surface. I suggest "try it on scrap beforehand to get some experience" before you do it the first time on your gun. 0 -
I'll go along with rhmc24 on this one. The solder he recommends is a 95% tin, 5% silver alloy and works fine. As a matter of fact, I think a lot of people sell soft solders short and don't realize how strong they are.
For what it's worth, I had a friend come to me just prior to the opening of a dove season once who wanted to install a Cutts Compensator on his 12 ga. Remington '58. I said I couldn't do it because I didn't have silver solder/brazing equipment. He said, "Hell, soft solder it".
I told him,"OK, I could do that, but later on when we were shooting ducks if the Cutts came off and flew out into the river, don't blame me!"
Well, it was still in place 15 years later when he sold the gun.
I suspect it still is.
Cheers,
OleDuk[:D][:D]
"Disperse you Rebels; Damn you,throw down your arms and disperse!"
British Major John Pitcairn, April 19, 1775. He fell at Bunker Hill two months later.0 -
Brownell's sells a low temp silver solder and also Heat sink paste to prevent scaling in bore. Might try chalk around the sight area to keep solder from sticking where it is not wanted.
Keep Your Powder Dry0 -
I use a 5% silver bearing solder which flows around 450 degrees F and
No-Corode soft sloder flux. A soapstone stick to keep solder from sticking where it is not wanted. The 1/16" diameter solder works best.0 -
Brownells low temp silver solder is the way to go.
I usually use a carpenters pencil where I don't want solder to be.
Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.0
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