Dialing Out Paralax
I copied this from a website i ran across.Being that i just bought a new scope does this way of setting it up seem good or should i just point it towards the sky and adjust.
Thanks...
1) We have found that it is best to focus in at 11 yards at the highest magnification setting the scope will allow. If your scope does not parallax adjust down to 10 yards then choose 1 to 5 yards more then the scope is supposed to be able to adjust down to. If you use a rubber Eye-Cup, remove it for these tests. Set your scope in a V- block that is mounted on a tripod, or sandbag your scope mounted gun so that it won't move. Use a tape measure and place your target at the exact specified distance from the front of the objective of your scope. Aim the cross hairs at the target. For a target use grid paper, a newspaper or something with fine lines that you can still make out while you are looking through the scope.
Steps 2 and 3 are to initially check the scope setup:
2) Adjust the parallax ring (front objective or side wheel) until the target grid paper from step 1 is in focus. The crosshairs may not be in focus at this time. (Keep in mind that if the crosshairs are welded to the target during the "Head Bop" (explained in 3 below) and the target is in focus, then the crosshairs should be in focus.)
3) Now without touching the scope (or what is supporting it) look through the eyepiece and move your head around, (we call this the "Head Bop"). If the center of the crosshairs stays exactly on the target while you are moving your head, then the ocular focus adjustment is correct and the scope is parallax error free when ever the target is in focus. (If that is the case then you may go to Note 1 below and then to Procedure 2). Remember that the target must be in the sharpest focus possible during these tests. If the center of the cross hair moves (even slightly) then you must adjust the eyepiece (Ocular Lens Adjustment).
Step 4 is to adjust the eyepiece (ocular adjustment)
4) The eyepiece adjustment will allow you to dial out parallax errors, which will be indicated by the target being in focus. Adjust the objective of the scope until the center of the cross hair is welded on the target. Do the "Head Bop" to confirm this. (The Target and the crosshairs may not be in focus at this time.) If your scope's Ocular (eye piece) adjustment has a locking ring then unlock it now. (If your scope has a quick focus eye piece then disregard comments made to locking the eye piece adjustment ring/collar. After finding the correct setting on a quick focus eye piece scope we always use a piece of black electrical tape wrapped around the quick focus ring to "Lock" the quick focus ring in place.) Then adjust the eyepiece (ocular adjustment) until the target is in focus without moving the object adjustment. Now lock the eyepiece adjustment with the locking collar.
Step 5 is to confirm that the eyepiece (ocular adjustment) is correct after a change has been made.
5) Take a break and rest your eyes for a few minutes. Time to re-check the settings. Rotate the front of the objective all the way to the infinity mark and then "focus" the front of the scope (parallax adjustment ring) until the target is in the sharpest focus (always move the objective end of the scope quickly to prevent your eyes from trying to compensate for an out of focus situation and fooling you). Always finish the rotation of the front of your scope in the same direction (I.E. always go from near to far or from far to near). Now do the "Head Bop" to see if the center of the cross hair is welded on the target. If it is, you are done with the eyepiece adjustment and you can go to Note 1 below and then Procedure 2.
6) If not, unlock the eyepiece locking collar; make a small adjustment to the eyepiece, and relock the collar. Again, rest your eyes for a few minutes. Then go back to step 2 and repeat the process until the scope passes the tests in steps 3 and 5.
Note 1: Remember there is a fine balance between the ocular adjustment and the objective parallax adjustment ring. Once you are finally done with the ocular adjustment you can then go to Procedure 2. Keep in mind that the scope is now set to be parallax error free when ever you have the target in proper focus. Another shooter will focus differently on a target with your scope so for anyone else the scope will not necessarily be parallax free. It is set for your eyes with your glasses. If you use shooting glasses then these procedures should be done with your shooting glasses/reading glasses on exactly the same way you will use your scope in the field.
Thanks...
1) We have found that it is best to focus in at 11 yards at the highest magnification setting the scope will allow. If your scope does not parallax adjust down to 10 yards then choose 1 to 5 yards more then the scope is supposed to be able to adjust down to. If you use a rubber Eye-Cup, remove it for these tests. Set your scope in a V- block that is mounted on a tripod, or sandbag your scope mounted gun so that it won't move. Use a tape measure and place your target at the exact specified distance from the front of the objective of your scope. Aim the cross hairs at the target. For a target use grid paper, a newspaper or something with fine lines that you can still make out while you are looking through the scope.
Steps 2 and 3 are to initially check the scope setup:
2) Adjust the parallax ring (front objective or side wheel) until the target grid paper from step 1 is in focus. The crosshairs may not be in focus at this time. (Keep in mind that if the crosshairs are welded to the target during the "Head Bop" (explained in 3 below) and the target is in focus, then the crosshairs should be in focus.)
3) Now without touching the scope (or what is supporting it) look through the eyepiece and move your head around, (we call this the "Head Bop"). If the center of the crosshairs stays exactly on the target while you are moving your head, then the ocular focus adjustment is correct and the scope is parallax error free when ever the target is in focus. (If that is the case then you may go to Note 1 below and then to Procedure 2). Remember that the target must be in the sharpest focus possible during these tests. If the center of the cross hair moves (even slightly) then you must adjust the eyepiece (Ocular Lens Adjustment).
Step 4 is to adjust the eyepiece (ocular adjustment)
4) The eyepiece adjustment will allow you to dial out parallax errors, which will be indicated by the target being in focus. Adjust the objective of the scope until the center of the cross hair is welded on the target. Do the "Head Bop" to confirm this. (The Target and the crosshairs may not be in focus at this time.) If your scope's Ocular (eye piece) adjustment has a locking ring then unlock it now. (If your scope has a quick focus eye piece then disregard comments made to locking the eye piece adjustment ring/collar. After finding the correct setting on a quick focus eye piece scope we always use a piece of black electrical tape wrapped around the quick focus ring to "Lock" the quick focus ring in place.) Then adjust the eyepiece (ocular adjustment) until the target is in focus without moving the object adjustment. Now lock the eyepiece adjustment with the locking collar.
Step 5 is to confirm that the eyepiece (ocular adjustment) is correct after a change has been made.
5) Take a break and rest your eyes for a few minutes. Time to re-check the settings. Rotate the front of the objective all the way to the infinity mark and then "focus" the front of the scope (parallax adjustment ring) until the target is in the sharpest focus (always move the objective end of the scope quickly to prevent your eyes from trying to compensate for an out of focus situation and fooling you). Always finish the rotation of the front of your scope in the same direction (I.E. always go from near to far or from far to near). Now do the "Head Bop" to see if the center of the cross hair is welded on the target. If it is, you are done with the eyepiece adjustment and you can go to Note 1 below and then Procedure 2.
6) If not, unlock the eyepiece locking collar; make a small adjustment to the eyepiece, and relock the collar. Again, rest your eyes for a few minutes. Then go back to step 2 and repeat the process until the scope passes the tests in steps 3 and 5.
Note 1: Remember there is a fine balance between the ocular adjustment and the objective parallax adjustment ring. Once you are finally done with the ocular adjustment you can then go to Procedure 2. Keep in mind that the scope is now set to be parallax error free when ever you have the target in proper focus. Another shooter will focus differently on a target with your scope so for anyone else the scope will not necessarily be parallax free. It is set for your eyes with your glasses. If you use shooting glasses then these procedures should be done with your shooting glasses/reading glasses on exactly the same way you will use your scope in the field.
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Seems a bit involved. Sometimes one has a tendency to "over spec the job" so to speak, but if you are comfortable with the above procedure, then use it. Otherwise, use whatever system you have used in the past that worked for you. You will still have to set the parallax for what ever range you are shooting, or do as a lot of us do, set it for about 100yds and except for very close or very precise shots leave it there. Rarely can I say that parallax caused me to miss. Mostly, I caused me to miss.
"What you do ultimately means nothing, and you could be replaced tomorrow by the first passing cretin." Corinne Maier0 -
If you have a paralax "AO" adjustable objective that you can use, you can do so. If that option is not available in your scope, you will have to do so on your own.
I like to use a "Laserlyte" bore installed, and adjust the paralax with the scope at 50 - 100 yards to match the dot and crosshair, then readjust again to actual point of impact with the ammo used. From then on, it depends on the capabilities of the scope as a "guide only", because a lot of people mistakenly think of paralax compensation by distance with "actual caliber" bullet drop by distance. If you have a specialized scope that adjust for both and is caliber specific, then you are in "hog heaven". If not, then you'll have to do the math. Maybe even go to "sniper" school?
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"If it ain't broke, fix it anyway... make it better!" (RadCat)0
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