1911 frame,compensated slide/CONTINUED
I looked at my barrel and frame assembly last night and learned alot about how this amazingly simple and effect design works.
My first picture shows what i consider to be a good "barrel to frame" feed ramp fit.
This next picture looks like it should rule out the chamber pressure concern. Look how much thicker the 38 super chamber is than the 45. I am not expert but that looks like enough to me.
I am confused by what you mean by blow back perry shooter.is that becasue with the tapper there is no delay.
My first picture shows what i consider to be a good "barrel to frame" feed ramp fit.
This next picture looks like it should rule out the chamber pressure concern. Look how much thicker the 38 super chamber is than the 45. I am not expert but that looks like enough to me.
I am confused by what you mean by blow back perry shooter.is that becasue with the tapper there is no delay.
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Hello look at your second picture the wall thickness is not the problem . Look at the feet and the link you will see the feet hang down on the 45 past the link and keep the gun locked on the 38 super barrel these feet have been cut off. It is sort of like a bolt action rifle with a heavy barrel.if you would grind the locking lugs off the bolt and fire the rifle you would EAT the bolt not a good thing . I would still advise you take to a knowable 1911 pistol smith. 0 -
Gun Guy-
Your updated pictures confirm my first view.
You do have a standard 1911 barrel feeding set-up without a supporting feeding ramp. The chamber feed has been additionally "throated" considerably, removing even more the case/throat support. You shouldn't fire any ammo hotter than standard factory "target" loads, as the cases could burst.
Your second picture shows that the slide "stop" pin function has been eliminated as the link would "arc" from front to rear, without "stopping" at the removed feet. If you insert a slide stop pin into your (unaltered) .45ACP barrel, and swing it back and forth you will notice that it will be stopped at a specific (TDC)point. That specific point normally would provide the optimum lock-up position/geometry betweem all three (slide, barrel and frame) necessary elements for timing the action's cycling. Without that "physical stop" from the barrel, it will befall entirely upon the barrel link to stop "all the forward momentum/inertia" from the combined weight of your complete upper assembly plus the pressure of your recoil spring. Obviously Mt. Browning never intended that to happen, and no manufacturer of "1911 barrel links" to my knowledge makes a link designed to withstand that continuous pull/stretch action with all that accompanying weight.
Your assembly will not act as a straight blow back, as the link will cause the up and down swing necessary to create the delayed blow back and proper meshing with the upper barrel and slide locking lugs.
Your assembly will work, but without the "definitive" barrel/slide stop component missing, proper timing will vary from shot to shot, and your accuracy will show a vertical displacement, that is untill the link decides to break from the stressing, and then your complete upper assembly will shoot forward, making you look rather silly, possibly as a case/cartridge base explodes/bursts and propels it even further, maybe even injuring yourself.
It is theorethically possible that the original frame fitted to your upper had an additional cross pin (removable for disassembly) somewhere forward between the upper guide rod head and the bottom of the barrel to elicit a positive barrel/slide stop. ????????
If you want additional information or "professional" help with this send me an e-mail, and I will be glad to help any way I can.[:D][:D][:D][8D][8D]0 -
Well, this set up sounds like it could cause me alot of grief. What if i wanted to just buy a standard barre, bushing, recoil spring. I looked at brownells, but how do i know witch ones will fit in my series 70 slide the best? I just want to be able to shoot 38 super and auto, i am not concerned with the rapid fire advatange of a compensator. will the recoil spring work with both? Please give me any of your thoughs on just replacing all internals of the slide. Thanks, i can't tell you enough how much help you guys have been thanks![8D] 0 -
If you stick to factory loads (or similar mid-low pressure loads), an unsupported barrel isn't critical. Any barrel in Brownells that ISN'T listed as being ramped/fully supported should work. If you're doing it yourself, I suggest you get something that's listed as "drop-in" as there will be MUCH less work fitting it. If a gunsmith is fitting it for you, go with whichever he prefers.
Some good brands to look at are: Nowlin, Briley, Bar-sto, KKM, Kart, and Stormlake. Some say Clark, but I think their barrels are a little softer and I've seen bottom lugs shear off...then again, that was with really high pressure loads. Don't know to much about other brands.0
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