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Barrel Cleaning

hr223shooter07
Hello everyone again, I don't think i posted this here before or not, well anyways my question was, i have a sporterized 03-A3 Springfield, rechambered for 6mm remington, before i got the gun i don't think it was cleaned on a regular basis, i took bore solvent on a patch and put it through the barrel a bunch, then i pull a dry patch through, i have done this dozens of times, at first the patches were turning blueish green, i think this was from copper fowling, the barrel looks super shiny when i hold it up to light, and now the patches are coming out cleaner, it doesn't appear to have any fouling residue on it, only residue from the gun oil, is this mean its clean enough? How can i remove the resudue quicker in the future? If you leave the gun dirty will it harm it? besides reducing accuray?

10/22 stainless carbine
Custom O3-A3
savage 24
stevens 67h
winchester x-150 .50
winchester 88 .308
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Comments

12 comments

Date Votes
  • hr223shooter07
    Hello everyone, i posted this at a different forum, but wanted to get a bunch of opionions from a bunch of different people, so to the questions, what type of bore cleaner do you use to clean your gun and get copper and residue out? I have the foaming bore cleaner, hoppes 9, Hoppes elite, and rem cleaner, and jb nonembedding bore cleaner...i have tried and tried to get all the copper out of my barrel but it seems like the patches always come out black when i put a solvent on them...when i put a clean patch through it comes back out white right now...but when i look at the barrel very carefully with no light, it looks like a dull color on the rifleing...what is this? i thought it might be where the blueing worn away on the rifling from the bullet but im not sure...also how do u know when to stop cleaning the gun and when is it clean enough? also i use it for deer so it doens't have to be 1/2 moa accuracy for varmints or anything like that if that makes a difference...also which cleaner do u recomend? Thanks!
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  • rufe-snow
    No offense meant, but I'll tell you the same thing that I told that other guy, ( shot (4) shots from a muzzle loader then cleaned it for 2 hours ), who posted this same kind of thread. Obsessive-Compulsive folks should consider other hobbies. All you need for a deer rifle is a patch with some Hoppes, then call it a day. I know some folks who only clean their rifles once a year if they feel like it. If it's stored correctly and only shot with modern noncorrosive ammo, it don't seem to matter.

    luger_4.jpg
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  • ATF
    I clean my guns when I feel like it (except black powder) and only when I feel like it and have been doing like that for over 50 yrs.I've never worn out a gun or had a rust problem. [^]

    Eagle_Guns.gif
    standard.jpg
    standard.jpg
    When a worm wants to relax,does he go fishing? "And remember a wet dog doesn't fly at night" "My memory's not as sharp as it used to be. Also, my memory's not as sharp as it used to be." ATF,Eagle Guns
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  • leeblackman
    There are so many different schools of thought when it comes to cleaning firearms. Everyone has a little different method. My opinion is, read published materials, and develope your own method. Also you might befriend a local gunsmith who you feel is competent and ask him/her what method they use. You might get some first hand instruction. You might also examine the owners manual for the firearm, most of them will have instructions on proper maintenance.

    I clean my firearms after every range trip. I enjoy cleaning firearms, I find it very therapeutic and stress relieving. I will spend long times metiuculously cleaning, but not because it is necessary or practical by anymeans.
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  • leeblackman
    I might also add that when it comes to cleaning barrels, use seperate more effective lead and copper removers rather than an "All-in-one" type, and thoroughly brush. Use patches to remove debris left after brushing. Use a flashlight and examine for lines of copper or lead in the rifling. If you plan on storing the firearm for short term (less than a year), then you might coat the bore with and oil. If you plan on storing longer than a year, you might coat with grease. If you plan on shooting, you'll want the bore free of any oils or greases. This is just an opinion based on my experiences.
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  • JustC
    the patches will ALWAYS be black when using the rem bore cleaner or the JB. The scrubbing action turns the cleaners black (don't know why). It does not matter if the bore is perfectly shiny, the patches will still be black on those types of cleaners. Now, if you use Wipe-Out bore foam and let it sit overnight you should have 95% of all the fouling dissolved.

    If a patch of hoppes or shooters choice etc comes out clean after allowing the bore to sit with the solvent in it for say 1hr, then the bore is clean. If you use a light at the muzzle and still see those orange traces on the lands, then copper is still present and may need a much harsher treatment (Sweets 7.62)

    why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
    Got Balistics?
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  • mrbruce
    I have been having good results with the Canadian cleaner (COPPER MELT)
    and I see that Brownells is carriyng it now.
    It's a little pricey but works very well.

    Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.
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  • targetshooter
    I shoot weekly and I clean my guns twice a year rather they need it or not. Of course they always need it. I use a product called blue wonder for my barrels only, I think it is to harsh for the rest of the gun. I use break free for other parts. Been doing this for a long time. it works for me. shoot about 100 rounds per week from several different handguns. Not a rifle shooter.

    Down Zero
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  • moreammoplz
    HR223

    By any chance are you not cleaning your rod after each patch. Sometime the solvent will get on your cleaning rod and then it will pick up fouling. You will then have one patch clean, then the next patch will be dirty because the rod has residue on it. Just a thought...

    I have used Hoppe cleaner and had good luck with it. Tried the Blue Wonder stuff on Sunday in my AR and to be honest couldn't tell a big difference.

    "Shoot Straight and Shoot often."
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  • Billsdadandson
    Hello HR 223,
    If your riflings look dull after a thorough cleaning your barrel may have eroded to the point that the pitting is filled with copper/guilding metal[:(]. This is no real problem if you have sufficient accuracy for hunting deer. I have two barrels like this, both were made before non-corrosive primers were available. Both rifles shoot well enough, so I just accept the fact that these barrels will never clean up to the point where a patch will come out perfectly clean. BTW I use Hoppes #9. It may not work as fast as some but it works.

    sonandfather
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  • Billsdadandson
    Second post same as the first.
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  • shotgunmaster
    WELL THIS IS A OLD VIETNAM A.F. STORY & [THIS AINT NO SHIX].WE USED THIS TO CLEAN THE INSIDE OF OUR M-60 BBL'S OF OUR DOOR GUNS & I STILL USE IT TODAY IN MY SHOP. TAKE A OLD BORE BRUSH & CUT A PIECE OF RED COLOR STOUCH-BRITE [FINE] TO RAP AROUND THE WORE OUT BRUSH TILL THE ENDS MEET [DON'T OVER LAP] & USE HOPPES #9 CLEANER NOW HERE IS WHAT MAKES THIS WORK I HAVE A OLD BORE ROD WITH A GUIDE ON IT THAT I CHUCK IN MY AIR DRILL ABOUT 1/2 SPEED & I WILL GARUNTY IT WILL WORK EVERY TIME & YOUR BORE WILL BE SO BRITE IT WILL BLIND YA & IT WILL BE FREE OF ALL RESIDUE. THEN USE ONLY MOBIL 1 FULLY SYNTHETIC TURBIN OIL [YOU CAN GET IT FROM ANY SMALL AIRPORT OR F.B.O.] BUT IF YOU CAN'T GET IT THERE YOU CAN GO TO YOUR AUTO PARTS STORE & GET MOBIL 1 EXTREME FORMULA OW-30 FULLY SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL. THIS IS WHAT US TYPE 111 "M" GUN FOLKS USE. IT DOESN'T LEAVE ANY RESIDUE AT HIGH TEMP'S

    shotgunmaster

    one shot-one kill
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