cold bluing
I'm thinking about trying a cold blue product like Blue Wonder or Brownells 44/40. I need some opinions on these or some other product.
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What is best for cold bluing a shootr .22 rifle? 0 -
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Most of the ones you buy in stores are basically like paint. They will cover up a spot with several coats to make the gun look darker, but when you use a good degreaser they will come right off. You can usually tell if a gun has been cold blued by rubbing your fingers over the spot, the blue will come off on your hands.
There is Blue I have used that worked okay on small spots. Bought it at a gunshow. The guy was from Wisconsin and would do a demo on a double barrel shotgun. He also sold the degreaser and brass cleaner. I forgot the name, but I have seen him several times at National Gun Day in Louisville, Knob Creek Machine Gun shoot and the SilverDome in Michigan. He is a one man show.
"Shoot Straight and Shoot often."0 -
I have no experience with it, but some think well of Blue Wonder. Check with Classic95 over on the general discussion board, he has messed with it a fair amount. 0 -
Brownell's Oxpho blue isn't awful. It's more of a black then a blue, but it is reasonably tough. With any of these products the key is in the metal prep. 0 -
I get best reults with cold blue when I heat the gun up a little before cleaning and applying blueing. After stopping the reaction with cold water, heat the metal again before oiling with light oil. I use 10-w-40 motor oil on the metal afterward. 0 -
I have used the Blue Wonder bluing system and it works well if you follow the directions. 0 -
Cold Blue bites. It never looks right if there is any comparison to extant blued parts on the gun, it usually looks gray to me and smells something awful! I can always tell instantly if a gun has been cold blued after touching it. Makes your hands smell like...well, ass, to be frank. Regardless of how short the touch is, it still transfers the smell and doesn't wash off too easily. The previous post about metal prep I totally agree with! Whether you are cold, hot or rust blueing, degrease the hell out of it or the metal/oil will cause the solution to repel. Check out the stuff in Brownells catalog. There are several blueing salt solutions that can be used with fair ease, and give really nice results. All you need is a stainless steel tank the rough size of the parts you'll be reblueing, a half way decent candy/industrial thermometer and a crappy old Coleman camp stove. Get the solution up to around 295 degree's for 15 minutes (after careful degreasing, hot soap and water), oil it when it comes out and let it sit for a day (sometimes I will employ a few swipes of 4 O steel wool at this point but it is usually not required)and be ready to be proud. There are lots of variables and if you do this long enough you will start to see some, but I feel it is largely over-mythologized and doable by your average guy with some common sense.
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Greetings, My first post on this forum. I plan to do a cold blue on a shotgun we had in the family before I came along. It is a break top Stevens 12ga. The date on the barrel looks to be 1914. Looking for a trigger spring for this gun. RichardC 0 -
RichardC, you'll get better results from starting a new thread instead of digging one up from almost 5 years ago. 0 -
If you are going to totally re blue a gun then the cold blue can be somewhat effective. If you are looking to re blue a particular area then in most cases you end up with a very ugly and mismatched finish. 0
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