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clark/para vs wilson/nowlin ramps P16

jake1369
I am trying to convert a p16 40 to 10mm. I found a barrel which states it has a wilson/nowlin ramp. I see other barrels with clark/para ramps. Can I use a nowiln ramped barrel in my p16? Sorry if this sounds dumb but I can't find the difference listed any where.
Thanks for your help, Greg
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  • richbug
    They don't work, been there tried that. As I recall the width of the ramps is different, I forget which is bigger. I just bought a spare 40 barrel and reamed it out. Don't forget the shock buffers and stronger recoil spring.

    My border collie is smarter than your honor student.
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  • RadCat
    Buying a new barrel would be the best deal as you would not compromise your present set-up, and end up with the choice of which to use. I would advise purchasing the barrel already chambered and "marked" 10mm instead of purchasing another .40S&W barrel to re-chamber, as it could confuse you as to which barrel you may have installed at the time.

    The difference between Wilson/Nowlin and Clark/Para/Lissner is in the barrel "foot". The barrel you presently have, that came with the gun has the Clark/Para profile and has a rounded foot protrusion below the feed ramp. The Wilson/Nowlin will have a flat 90 degree foot below the feed ramp. Some gunsmiths have succesfully "reground" the Clark/Para round foot into the (close) shape of the Wilson/Nowlin. But you can not properly re-shape the Wilson/Nowlin into the Clark/Para as there is not enough material to do so.

    I highly recommend the barrels made by "Clark" in 10mm. You can purchase one from Brownells affordably enough. They also have other brands of course. The barrel will require fitting by a gunsmith, as the hood and feet-cam will be oversized. Some of the manufacturers offer excellent instructions showing how to fit your own barrel, if you are handy and carefull. Schuemann barrells offers the best instructions with their barrels, although they can be pricey, but they are one of the best.

    Once done, the only real recommendation would be to add the shock buffer, which I install in "all" 1911's anyway, regardless. The stock recoil spring should work fine with present factory 10mm offerings, unless you use hot loads like Cor-Bon. Otherwise springs similar in weight to those used for the .45ACP will work fine, somewhere around 16.5 to 17.5 lbs.

    The only pet-peeve in this change would be the feeding with the 10mm cartridges, as sometimes some of the non-round bullet shapes tend to misfeed. Polishing or cutting back the ramp and re-polishing usually cures this problem, as does stronger magazines springs.

    Good luck, and welcome to the real power of the 10mm. "Club".
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  • richbug
    My para came with a 17 from the factory for .40 cal. The 10mm works good with a 22. If you shoot many rounds with a 16-17 pound spring, you are gonna break something.

    My border collie is smarter than your honor student.
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  • Pearyw
    Richbug is right-on on the springs. I play the barrel change game with Colt 10mm and 40 S&W barrels. I also use 22# with 10mm and 17# with 40 S&W. The best thing I ever did for mine spring wise was to convert it to use Glock type flat wound ISMI springs. They are good for 40 to 50 thousand rounds instead of repacing them every 3000.
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