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Hot Blue SxS

NEEDCOLD
I found a 100 y.o. sxs shotgun in an attic all rusted, etc... and after alot of cleaning and tinkering found it to be a shooter. Not a collectors piece by any means, but worth restoring to use from time to time. Will hot bluing the barrels damage the silver solder? If so, could anyone recommend an alternative cold bluing solution that doesn't easily wear off? Thanks, Bob.
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Comments

4 comments

Date Votes
  • Pearyw
    Yes, hot bluing will effect the silver solder holding the barrels together. A home alturnative is the Blue Wonder bluing systems. You can have them rust blued commercially, but it would probably cost more than the gun is worth.
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  • captkirk3@dslextreme.com
    I've learned over the years that Silver Solder was Not Used to Solder Barrels together.....They are TINNED...! TINNING Barrels is an Art....best left to an expert... Silver Solder tends to weaken its adherance when used in Hot Bluing.....and there is the Awful Chance that risidual Bluing Salts trapped between the barrels will leach for years...weaking the barrels...and eating deep pits in the metal........

    Captain Kirk, Tech Staff
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  • nononsense
    NEEDCOLD,

    If you have some desire and a little ability, the Rust Blue or slow rust process is superior for these types of firearms. The process has been streamlined and improved significantly these days, in my opinion.

    This is an excellent article regarding the Rust Blue process complete with photographic illustrations:

    http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar51.htm


    Slow Rust Blueing

    The old slow rust blue process. It has several advantages over both hot caustic and cold blue processes. It does not require an expensive investment in tanks, burners, and chemicals. Only two tanks are needed. The process does not require a separate building because of fumes. Small parts can be blued on a kitchen stove. Slow rust blueing only requires boiling water after degreasing so there is no danger of being burned by 350 deg. caustic. Slow rust blueing is the best method for the home gunsmith because it is safer and requires the least in equipment. Slow rust blue is also more durable the hot caustic or cold blue. The only disadvantage is it takes more time and is more labor intensive. Old double shotguns with soft soldered barrels should only be slow rust blued because the hot caustic process will dissolve the solder. Slow rust blue done right is the most beautiful gun finish available. Take a good look at a fine Parker, Fox, or L.C. Smith shot gun or check the gun finish at the following links: www.mckaybrown.com
    www.hollandandholland.com www.johnrigbyandco.com www.williamlarkinmoore.com
    A complete description of the slow rust blue process can be found in the following titles: Gunsmithing by Roy Dunlap
    NRA Gunsmithing Guide by the National Rifle Association
    Firearms Blueing and Browning by R.H. Angier Gunsmith Tips and Projects by Wolf Publishing

    http://www.setel.com/~maxwells/mausercentral/gunsmithtips.htm


    The traditional Rust bluing method is a lot slower and very labour intensive. Briefly, the process involves degreasing the parts, boiling out in hot water to heat the parts and remove any foreign residues. Chemical solution is then carefully swabbed onto the parts and they are then suspended in a special 'rusting chamber' where the temperature and humidity is controlled for about 2 hours. This allows a red rusting to form on the parts and also slightly etches the surface of the steel. Using a stronger solution, or increasing the temperature, humidity level or time spent in the rusting chamber can increase the degree of etching. Skill and practice must be used to achieve the right degree of etching. Too much can spoil the job. The parts are then boiled in hot water for 10-15 min. This changes the red rusting to black.
    The parts are dried off, then the loose rust is 'carded off' with either a very fine wire wheel or '0000' grade steel wool. Care must be taken at all times not to touch the parts by hand to avoid contamination with oil. The chemical solution is then swabbed onto the parts again and the cycle is repeated 4 or more times until the right depth of colour with an even finish is achieved.
    Finally the parts are boiled out to neutralise the rusting, then they can be soaked in the finishing oil. The process can run over several days. It is usually more durable than caustic bluing.
    http://www.gunsmith.co.nz/gunsmithing.html#rebluing


    254562.jpg

    254563.jpg


    http://www.theshootersroost.com/rustbluing.html


    Here is a product that works for these types of projects:

    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=7604&title=BELGIAN+BLUE

    Best of luck!
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  • NEEDCOLD
    As always, you guys are a plethora of insight and information and I can't thank you enough.
    I am polishing the steel as we speak, and think that I have a decision on what to do with it.
    Next question is for the wood. I have it stripped and pretty much ready for stain. I plan on using Linspeed oil for the finish, but am curious about the stain. Does anybody have any favorite products? I'm looking for a color close to an Auto-5.
    The wood is in great shape, is walnut but not very dark.
    Thanks again.
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