Adjusting Parallax on a Scope for LR shooting
How does one know when the parallax is adjusted correctly for long range shooting.
I have a Luppy Mark 4 6-20 50mm with side focus.
Lets say targets ranging from 300 to 1K.
If parallax is off will it effect accuracy?
Whats a simple check list you can go through while behind the scope to make sure your parallax is good to go. Thanks.
I have a Luppy Mark 4 6-20 50mm with side focus.
Lets say targets ranging from 300 to 1K.
If parallax is off will it effect accuracy?
Whats a simple check list you can go through while behind the scope to make sure your parallax is good to go. Thanks.
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quick and dirty way,..focus the rig on target, then move your head back and forth from side to side while watching the crosshair in the glass. The crosshair should appear to stay centered in the glass. If it appears to move side to side, it is not adjusted correctly. I however doubt that once you dial in a good picture on a side focus M1 MK IV, that you have any worries. If it moves side to side even after a bit of very minute adjustments, it needs to go back to leupy. Like I said,..I think you are good to go. I would doubt that even if the picture is completely out of focus, that you could get the reticle to move side to side. Although I don't own any of the 3 I had,..I will say they are SUPERB glass. The only issue I had was one that dropped it's reticle. I would assume leupy would be smart soon and laser etch the reticles.
No amount of fiddling will allow shooting through heavy mirage with any regularity, and it gets worse with distance. The only remedy is to dial the magnification down and use all the sunshade you can get. Mirage makes for erratic groups, even if you can half way manage to read it with some efficiency. If you had a bad day shooting with a good clear sky and a high sun angle,..it's no big thing. I have an 82MM Kowa spotter with a 20-60x eyepeice that can't go past 200yds with a heavy mirage even on 20X [V].
You having issues with your rig?
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
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Well you know how I posted some data from my last 300 yard test with the setup, not bad but the rest of the groups just SUCKED. I was just wondering if I was the problem and not the rig. Maybe I had something out of adjustment. I just can't believe or WANT to believe that loads that shoot 3/4MOA at 100 all day long shoot 2 to 3MOA at 300. This is my first LR rig so I am not use to all the things like parallax and what not. Will be out on the 300 yard line this Saturday for another try, and NO caffine this time. 0 -
tweak the load a bit. The SMK should be asleep at 100yds with the speed a 308 is capable of pushing it in a 10twist. Remember,..100yds at 3/4moa doesn't mean 2 1/4moa at 300yds, wind can change that as well as mirage and sun angle. But a sub 3" at 300yds is still some good shooting.
Have you tried to seat the bullet out farther and work the load again? I'll bet if your at "book" OAL you are a long way from the lands.
Does it foul quickly? Do you get barrel heat mirage and can't focus through it?
I am doubtfull the scope is bad. Try even 3 rounds at 100yds,..if she is all over the place, then yes, the scope let go, but doubtful with that glass you have.
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
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Will do. If you got a link to that sinclair tool you were speaking of that would be great. The OAL tool or something? I doubt its the scope, well it better not be. Could of just been a bad day for me. We'll see this weekend. 0 -
www.sinclairintl.com
search for the seating depth tool or something to that effect. if not,..just search by category and you will come to it. It is a steel rod about 10" long, with 2 stops that have set screws, and a black nylon peice which is inserted in the bolt raceway to hold the rod in alignment with the bore. I think it may be ~$20, and worth every penny.
Or do a search on the split case method for seating depth. I'll post a picture tonight of how to make a split case for a seating tool. You simply resize a fired case, then with a dremel or hacksaw blade, you split the neck down to the shoulder/body juntion. That split makes enough spring tension to allow you to start a bullet by hand,..then when you insert the round and close the bolt, the bullet is set back in the neck with the rifling contact. Once the bolt is opened and SLOWLY removed (while holding pressure on the case so that the ejector plunger doesnt drag the bullet across the inside of the receiver) you should be able to extract a seated bullet in the split case which will be exactly at the lands (maybe a few .001's into them due to the tension on theneck). Measure that round, set the die, and start loading. You can take that OAL (or I would suggest using a comparator to get a casehead-to-ogive measurement which is much more accurate) write it down, and then change depth from there in the future as you experiment with seating depth and it's affect on group size.
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
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