1911 Problems
I have an Olympic arms 1911 45 that when fired the hammer will not stay back. It chambers a new round but the hammer follows the slide back into battery. After doing a function check I have discovered that the hammer only follows the slide when the trigger remains depressed. If the trigger is not pulled when the slide is cycled it will stay cocked, drop the mag, pull the trigger and then cycle the slide the hammer won't stay cocked.
Should I replace the disconnector? What else should be replaced?
MOLON LABE!
An evil tree bears evil fruit. You can destroy as much fruit as you want, but it will always grow back, and it will always be evil.
Tear the tree out of the ground by the roots and burn it. Burn it to ash and grind out the embers with your boot until there's nothing left. Not a single spark. Not a single seed.
Should I replace the disconnector? What else should be replaced?
MOLON LABE!
An evil tree bears evil fruit. You can destroy as much fruit as you want, but it will always grow back, and it will always be evil.
Tear the tree out of the ground by the roots and burn it. Burn it to ash and grind out the embers with your boot until there's nothing left. Not a single spark. Not a single seed.
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Hello, my commander ambi-safety all of a sudden
started failing. Safety on,pull the trigger-
safety and hammer fall. When I take the slide
off all seems well, but any forward movement of slide
safety fails.---(fyi-short guide rod).
When slide is on safety fits in notch fine.[?]
Any suggestions?
Thanks ---Ron0 -
Ether the firing pin has been filed down ,or the main spring is to light, you cannot judge the poundage of the main spring by trigger pull ,while it may affect it slightly you still cannot judge by hand ,the lowest main spring I would suggest is a 19 # ,anything less will not set of primers such as Winchester ,I have heard of going lower but only with cci primers
A main spring is only about 1.25
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Next step would be to change the main spring in it.
Also make sure that is the correct firepin for that gun. Could be too short?
Good way to function test your weapon without live fire is: (MAKE SURE WEAPON IS UNLOADED)
Then just take a pencil and put the end with the eraser down into the barrel first and fire the gun. My Kimber firing pin will send the pencil straight up a 3 feet easily. If your gun can do that then the fire pin is fine. But if it is barely getting the pencil out of the gun you may still have a problem. Try this and let us know what kind of results you are getting.
Also what kind of ammo are you shooting?0 -
unless the chamber in your barrel is too deep or the slide is not closeing all the way .VERY unlikely . The only other thing to look at is make sure the fireing pin is not binding in the slide. remove the slide from the gun and look at the breach face then with a small punch or ballpoint pin press the back of the fireing pin it should come out min of .060 inch when you let it go it should return and be out of sight.Other than that the pin return spring and mainspring The one that is inside the grip mainspring housing is the only thing left. 0 -
Could he tweak the mainspring a little to give it some more tension, just to diagnose the problem? 0 -
Thanks for the replies. Is the hammer spring the same as the main spring? Been looking around and a complete new spring set and firing pin are all pretty cheap, so I may just replace it all. I tried the pencil trick, and I would get the pencil out of the gun a foot or so. I am using mostly reloads with CCI primers, but this also occurs with UMC and winchester white box target ammo. I like this gun, it never jams on me, just would like to get the firing pin problem fixed then I will be happy. Think I will get all new springs and firing pin, and see if that helps, I am sure it would.
Thanks
Alleno0 -
go with wolff only
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