Can someone check their reload book for me?

Kdub

January 20, 2005 16:23

Can't find a 165 gr JSP, but can find a Nosler 170 gr JHP. That load will be safe for your 165 gr jacketed bullet.

For the 10mm Auto - using AA #7, start load is 10.8 gr for 1148 fps, and max load is 12.0 gr for a 1305 fps with 37.5KPSI.

Keep off the Ridgeline

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sweaver

January 20, 2005 16:34

I'm sticking to starting loads for now...here are the exact bullets:

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/271698

thanks,
shane

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22WRF

January 20, 2005 16:54

The loads of Accurate #7 for a 165 gr SWC 9.9 gr giving you 1155 fps max load is 11.0 for 1273 fps.
Max 35,500 psi Max Avg SAAMI Pressure is 37,500 for 10mm Auto
Jacketed or non jacketed won't make much difference it's bullet weight that counts
Data from Winchester

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sweaver

January 20, 2005 18:10

Ok, is the 10mm and .40 S&W the same??
I'm loading for .40cal.

shane

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RadCat

January 20, 2005 18:36

Shane. Maybe I didn't quite catch it, but you did not say whether you are loading 40 S&W or 10mm (cartridge size instead of bullet diameter). Glock makes both chamberings, but not in the same size gun. Something in my "eye" tells me yours is a 40 S&W. Correct me if I'm wrong. I shoot both cartidges, and prefer the 10mm, as I have professed before in my posts here. I have been accused already of "abusing" maximum power, but to me there is no such thing as "too much muzzle velocity" and stopping power. Just like to be expedient, that's all. I like to control my rapid fire, so I advocate the use of lighter faster and "fatter" bullets. For the 10mm the 165gr. are just fine, although I have some loads for the 135gr JHP that zing around over 1500 fps that I wouldn't want to shoot in a Glock using Hodgdon HS-7 and H-110. The H-110 are "compressed" loads. Yes they are within SAAMI pressures, but can't give you the exact grainage for liability reasons. You must approach these loads slowly and carefully. Keep on checking for "over-flattened" primers, or split cases, and back down. Some powders tend to peak too quickly in their pressures spikes, splitting cases when that happens. I prefer powders like Vihtavuori 3n37 or Hodgdon H-110 because they produce lower peak pressures at maximum grainage and give great muzzle velocities even in barrels as short as four inches. Yes, you may get a small portion of "unburned powder" spitting out of your barrel, in the shorter barrels, but resist the temptation of "over-crimping" your case mouths to increase the "dwell" time, as this will spike your pressures accordingly. Once you get a consistent load, record all aspects of that load so that you can duplicte it exactly. Use the same overall lenght, amount of crimp and same primer, for consistent safe results. It is also very important to remember that the most powerfull load may not be the most accurate or consistent. And you should not use "handloads" for defense purposes for obvious reasons, that your attorney can explain to you. If you are loading 40 S&W, remember that those cases can almost do the same pressures as the 10mm, but you most increase the overall lenght to the maximum that will reliably slide up your magazine without binding, in order to keep your pressures down. Of course, you must also check to verify your bullets ar not to long and engaging past your chamber's throat into the rifling as this can create dangerous pressure spikes. Accurate #7 powder is a versatile powder, but can peak quickly with an extra bit of crimp. Watch for pressure signs. I have been describing maximum powder loads situations, which eventually you will want to experiment with. Do sp very carefully. Try your lower powder "manual" specified loads first. And by all means , HAVE FUN. SSAAFFEELLYY!!!!!!!!!!!

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sweaver

January 20, 2005 18:42

quote:Try your lower powder "manual" specified loads first.

Thats the problem, cant find a manual load...just downloaded Winchester's manual and they dont list a 165gr bullet...and the ones I bought are Winchester!

BTW, I am loading for .40 cal. Thanks for all that info, but having less than 20 rounds of reloading under my belt most of what you said is in another language...[:p]

shane

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Kdub

January 20, 2005 18:55

OK, now that you've clarified which cartridge you're shooting, here's the loading data from Accurate Arms manual #2 for the .40 S&W. Again, you can use the same AA #7 loads for the 165 gr jacketed bullets as they list for 170 gr jacketed. Start at the "Start" loads and work your way up in small increments:

Start load: 8.4 gr at 923 fps

Max load: 10.3 gr at 1049 fps and 34,400PSI

Keep off the Ridgeline

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RadCat

January 20, 2005 19:11

Shane, sorry, I got carried away. I love and enjoy configuring loads for differrent powders that very often are not recommended for common loads. Someday you'll speak the same language, very soon, if you keep with it. Usually most powder manufacturers will list some "recommended" loads in their web-sites. My first suggestion, if you haven't done so already would be to buy one or two "loading" manuals and follow their instructions. If suitable powder charges are not listed for the powde/caliber combination you have, do not improvise. Go and buy a powder listed for your caliber in your loading manual, rather than rely on advise given here. Better safe than sorry. I can say for instance that a charge of 7.5 gr. of your Accurate # 7 powder using your Winchester 165 gr. JHP bullets, with a standard Winchester small primer, medium taper crimp, and an overall cartridge lenght of 1.135 will give you a pleasant shooting load, that should be accurate and reliable cycling in your Glock 23. This is not a maximum load, kind of middle of the road, and good to start with. But I suggest you double check it with your powder manufacturer. Your final charge might be 7.1 or 7.6 gr., but that you will have to find out yourself with your gun, to see which variation will work better. There are no specific formulas that work the best for everyone. That's why we try different factory "brands untill we find one that works the best. Handloading you can adjust your loads untill they are perfect for your individual gun and style of shooting.

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sweaver

January 20, 2005 19:23

This is where I get confused. I looked at reloading as an exact science as far as powder to bullet goes. For a .40calS&W I have been given this thus far:

1. Start 8.4 Max 10.3 (this is for 170gr, not 165)
2. 7.1-7.6
3. Start 10.8 Max 12.0 (also for a 170gr)

Ok, so I've looked at my three resources and none of them list the bullet at all. Two folks give me numbers for a heavier bullet but very different ranges, a third gives me the numbers for what my Hornady book lists as a 200gr bullet load (7.5). I really do appreciate the input but so far the numbers are too far apart to go with any of them. I dont want to damage my gun..What I really want to know is why in hell arent these bullets listed anywhere? How can they sell a frickin reloadable bullet without any information on it. I'm calling Midway tomorrow, make them send me some 170s or something.

Confused I say!

Shane

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RadCat

January 20, 2005 19:52

Shane. I have a Glock 23 for which I reload. I have tried about most every combination of bullet and powder for the 40 S&W, since I have been shooting IPSC for over twenty years, and 40 S&W is the caliber of choice for IPSC "Limited" class, which is the one I shoot the most. I shoot it in a Glock and in a 1911. The load I gave you is a "safe" low recoil, accurate and will work very safe and well in your Glock. It is not a defense load, and it won't even be considered a "major factor" load for competition. Handloading is akin to cooking food, in which you use the recipe book as a guide, but then change it a little bit to suit your individual taste. That is the reason why the manual list "starting" loads and "maximum" loads, indicating that somewhere in between should be your "usefull" load. The load I gave you is a "target" load, definetely safe, and pleasant to shoot. I have shot it myself and liked it. But you do have the option of working with it a little to suit your taste, untill it becomes "your" perfect recipe. Notice that I gave complete specifics, including amount of crimp, primer to use and cartridge lenght. If you want a more powerfull load you can use the other loads given to you, but I don't think that at the present you are looking to load for power, but for fun. Start somewhere, don't get frustrated. The rule of thumb when you have a bullet weight not listed is to use the load for the next higher bullet weight listed as it would be considered safe, because it is configured for a bullet that would create higher pressure, and your bullet being lighter would create lower (safe) pressure. Just make sure that you compare jacketed bullet to jacketed bullet, and don't mix/interchange the data for a "lead" bullet with a jaccketed bullet. Lead bullets, normally create lower pressures.

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Mr Gee

January 21, 2005 06:35

i maybe off track here but has anyone looked at new cowboy shoot ammo as the 38-40 older pistol - rifle cartridge maye have some info ... my reloading stuff hasn't been unpacked yet or i would look-C

confused....but learning

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Can someone check their reload book for me?

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