1911 Triger Job question
i have recently purchase all the components for a trigger job on my springfield armory1911; match grade sear, sear spring, disconector, hammer, Dlask trigger, spring kit, and also a beavertail grip safety.
i however neglected to buy a hammer strut ! will i be able to use the hammer strut that is alread installed or should i purchase a new one?
i would like to give the gun to the pistolesmitha ASAP (while i have the money)
lso if i use the stock hammer strut will it efect the trigger job adversely?
Thanks in advance guys
i however neglected to buy a hammer strut ! will i be able to use the hammer strut that is alread installed or should i purchase a new one?
i would like to give the gun to the pistolesmitha ASAP (while i have the money)
lso if i use the stock hammer strut will it efect the trigger job adversely?
Thanks in advance guys
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Of all the trigger jobs I have done to 1911's, replacing the hammer strut has never been a benefit or detriment to getting optimal results.
I have not replaced any of the struts on my 1911's, and all sport crisp 3 to 3 1/2 lb. triggers.0 -
Use the old hammer strut. Be aware that the safety works buy blocking movement of sear if you replace parts cock gun on empty chamber iengage safety and try to pull trugger remove finger from trigger and take safety off the hammer should stay back .make sure this works some times because of sligt diff. in parts the safety works when on but the the hammer falls when you take it off even when you don't touch the trigger. Dont go below 3 pounds on trigger or the hammer might follow the slide home and you get full auto. quote:"PRAISE THE HARDBALL GUN" 0 -
With modern parts (Ed Brown, EGW, STI, Cylinder and Slide, etc.) it's very possible to have a reliable trigger pull under 3lbs. In fact, I don't know of anybody shooting IPSC open class with triggers OVER 3lbs. and we jump, run, and do all sorts of things with our guns! My trigger is about 2lbs. and I know of several shooters that are in the 1.5-2.0lb. range.
As far as struts go, they don't make any difference, except titanium struts. If you want the ultimate and short lock time (time from when the sear pivots out of the way to when the firing pin ignites the primer), you could get a titanium hammer strut, mainspring cap, and hammer.
However, titanium hammers tend to wear faster than steel so your trigger job won't last as long. Because of this, they are hard to find nowadays. I think STI or Chip McCormick still makes them. Personally, I think nothing gives as short a lock time as a titanium hammer and I'm willing to put up with doing a trigger job about every year, but I know most people don't feel the same way.0 -
thanks for all the info guys.
sent the gun out this morning to the pistolesmith . . . . . i await it's return with eager anticipation. i hope it was worth the over 200$ i spent on parts0
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