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.17 HM2

dirtcop
Has anyone had any dealings with this new load. I understand that it is a .22lr necked down for the .17. E.A. Brown and Company (www.eabco.com) offer the barrel kits to convert the ole 10/22 in bull barrel at about $175 after s&h. I guess the old clips work with the new load b/c they did not offer .17 cal clips. Is there enough there to cycle the rifle as it does with the .22. Just didn't want to spend the $$ if it doesn't work - just to say I own a auto .17hm2. thanks
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5 comments

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  • clays
    DC, this is the first I have seen of a conversion by only changing the bolt operating handle & of course the barrel. The other conversions I have seen require a complete bolt & spring change. Another $200 by itself. I can assure you the .17MII has enough recoil to cycle the bolt, as this has been the problem with these conversions to date. Excessive recoil. I purchased a Green Mtn conversion barrel (when they were available) in .17HS which if you are not familiar with is about a 1/16th shorter than the .17MII and installed it on my 10-22. I am very satisfied with the accuracy but must confess I have problems with feeding from some of the factory magazines. Eagle 10rnd single stack mags work best. I am quite a fan of the .17 & first bought a Marlin .17HMR, then the Green Mtn barrel in .17HS. When I purchased this barrel I was unaware of the two different chamberings (17HS & 17MII). I have recently purchased a new Marlin in 17MII. Be forewarned this new T-series trigger is terrible!! Final answer to your question is that I don't think I would spend the $175 to convert your 10-22 when you already own a 17MII.
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  • heavyiron
    Hi Dirtcop,

    Yes, I have had some dealing with the setup from E.A. Brown Company.

    First of all, you are exactly correct that the .17MII is a .22LR necked down to .17 caliber. It fires the same bullet as the .17HMR. This is a high performance, high velocity number and there is plenty of energy to cycle the action on the 10/22. In fact, that has been an unanticipated problem for the after market manufacturers. Many produced and even began to sell the .17 MII only to find out to their horror that the there was surplus energy producted by the .17MII compared to the .22LR. The excess pressure resulted in improper timing of the cycle and from what I understand also had a nasty propensity to sometimes eject the cartridge before pressure levels dropped in the chamber (not a good scenario). Cabela's even offered Green Mountain barrels in one or two catologs and then withdrew them.

    I know of two after market barrel makers (10/22s), one being Green Mountain and the other a custom barrel maker, Jarvis Custom, who both discontinued their .17MII barrels because of this problem.

    There are only two manufacturers who will now sell a .17MII barrel for the 10/22 including E.A. Brown Co. and Valquartsen. Both companies would rather have you purchase a new bolt for the .17MII if you don't have one and that is reasonable expectation on their part, since retaining the stock 10/22 bolt invites disaster.

    The problem with the old bolts is there is not enough mass in the bolt body to balance the pressure to time the operation cycle. The additional mass of the newer bolts soaks up some of the recoil velocity and energy and slows the bolt cycle down where ignited cartridges are not being ejected from chamber. It is strictly a problem of adding more mass to the existing bolt assembly.

    Yes, the .22LR magazines work just fine with the .17MII.

    E.A. Brown seems like they have a very reasonable price for their setup. Compare theirs to Volquartsen. I was going to convert my 10/22 several months ago, but did not want a bull barrel and that is all that is being offered now. I want a factory contour target barrel.

    Below is a photo of my converted 10/22Magnum to .17HMR. This rifle has a custom, factory contour, match barrel from Jarvis, 2 pound trigger, bolt buffer, 3x9x40 scope, and extra power extractor. It is fairly accurate and much fun to have this much power/velocity in a semi-auto.

    [img][http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/heavyiron/Weapons/Ruger_10_17.jpg/img][/img]Ruger_17HMR.jpg

    Regards,

    Heavyiron[8D]

    bullitt_county_4199_small.jpg
    "If I don't see you nomore on this world, I'll meet you on the next one, and don't be late!" - Jimi Hendrix
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  • heavyiron
    Don't know how I screwed up one of the above photos.

    Here it is.

    Ruger_10_17.jpg

    Heavy

    bullitt_county_4199_small.jpg
    "If I don't see you nomore on this world, I'll meet you on the next one, and don't be late!" - Jimi Hendrix
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  • dirtcop
    Hi Heavyiron,
    Instead of the big conversion, just today I broke down and bought the Marlin .17hm2 with the bull barrel. I was going to have to purchase a new stock to retro fit the 10/17 bull barrel b/c mine is the standard barreled .22 along with the new barrel and bolt handle. All together I spent a max of $250 for the gun, scope and shells. It really looks and feels like it can be a tack driver. Thank you for all the advice. I would still like to have a bull barreled .17hm2 in a ruger auto. I've been a real fan of most all ruger guns and especially the 10/22. Again thanks - dirtcop
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  • gclmem
    I purchased an E.A. Brown Co. bull barrel for my 10/22. They also provide a bolt carrier with a somewat larger knob (more mass) and a heavier carrier spring. It was an easy install with the instructions provided. I also installed a lighter hammer and trigger return spring. So far not a tack driver at 50 yards but I want change out my 6x scope for a variable scope with higher magnification so to get a more precise hold. The let off needs further improvement as well I think. I get the best performance now from a cold barrel, 10 shots in 3 inches at 50 yards, but therafter while the barrel warms there are more flyers though not extreme. So, next to get a better trigger and practice, practice, practice.
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