What chrony to buy
I am going to invest into a chrony and would like to know what would be the one to get. Any input would be very much appreciated.
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quote:Originally posted by turko77
I am going to invest into a chrony and would like to know what would be the one to get. Any input would be very much appreciated.
OEHLER RESEARCH, by far!! I have two. A model 33 I bought way back in the mid 70's and a 35P, with printer. Both are easy to use, accurate and rugged. Cost a bit more, but worth it! I have also had a Chrony. Didn't like it by comparison. Of course this all depends on how much your going to use it. I use mine a lot!! If your going to shoot a few loads over one a couple times a year, it's hard to justify the cost. Happy buying. The Left Wingman
"Government is the Enemy of Mankind"0 -
I Second the Oehler nomination. 0 -
Have owned the Chrony F1, the Chrony Master Beta and presently have a PACT PC2 and a Oehler 35P.
The Chrony's were cheaper, faster to set up and gave reasonable results. Were sensitive to sunlight and extraneous signals.
The PC2 is easier than the Oehler to set up,cheaper than the Oehler, less light sensitive than the Chrony's, but will pick up the muzzle blast from nearby benches - have to watch and edit these readings.
The Oehler is the most difficult to set up, yet it's 3 screens with their 3 foot spacing give the most accurate measurements. The system is built to survive nuclear blasts (kidding!) and the least light sensitive of the bunch.
If in a hurry and just need some load development info, will take the Pact unit out to the range. When time isn't a factor and wanting to get good solid readouts, the Oehler unit is used.
Keep off the Ridgeline0 -
I traded off my PACT for a Oehler because I got tired of replacing the screen brackets every time it fell over. Other than that the PACT did a very good job with the only other problem being muzzle blast setting the first screen off. I took care of that by just moveing it away another 10 ft and it did OK then.
I think you could run over the screen brackets on the Oehler and not break them. (well maybe not) You'll sure ruin the ones on the PACT.
Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.0 -
I have a chrony gamma master with the printer and remote screen. I have not found a reason to try anything else as it gives me everything I need. Use a good tripod to help with stability and set it a good 12-15ft ahead of the muzzle. I set mine to the length the cord will allow with the printer on the bench.
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
Got Balistics?0 -
I've had the Chrony F1 for 5 or 6 years, and find no problems with it if you follow set-up directions. I've shot over it with everything from .22 LR to .375 H&H, and the only problem was it took a direct hit with a 6.5x55 and had to be replaced. For a low cost point of view, this is a good unit, and reports accurately enough for this non-rocket science reloading I do!! For less than $100, what's not to like??
SEMPER FI MAC, SEMPER FI0 -
I recommend the CED Millenium Chrono. It has a nice remote display that you can set next to you to easily read your results, and lots of other good features. It is also, to my knowledge, the only chronograph that offers and "infrared" illuminator so that you can use it indoors, without having to rely on "reliable sunshine illumination" to get consistent readings. 0 -
I've had my PACT for almost 12 years, and last year was the first time I had any trouble; it was reading in metric (or something), and I had to send it to Texas for repair. Cost me $5 and a 2 week wait for a new unit with new skyscreens/sensors.
I've never had the problems of shooting my chronograph, blowing off the screens, or driving over it on my way home from the range; so I'll not throw stones at those who have.
It gives min/max, spread, standard deviation, etc. just as well as those mega $ units, runs on 1 9-volt battery, and consists of a rail with the sensors on it, a pair of 16-foot cables, and a box to put next to you on the bench to read your results; dunno why you'd need Infrared whatever or a printer away from your computer.....
"Qui non est hodie cras minus aptus erit" --OVID0 -
the printer will print the strings as well as ES and SD and can be torn off and labeled at the range. Much quicker than taking it home and plugging it in to a computer,..especially if one of the shooters wants to build his dope chart at home,..but doesn't happen to live with you. Mine instantly prints the speed as the bullet passes the screens,..then when the string is complete,.you press STAT button and out comes the High, Low, AVG, ES, and SD all in one nice little printout. For under $200, this is one great investment for the handloader. Once this one craps out,..the Oehler 35P will be the next one,..but not until.
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
Got Balistics?0 -
The criteria for most chronographs is the accuracy and the ease of operation. Since they all work on the idea that the bullet causes a shadow on the sensors that start and stop a clock, the larger the distance, the less effect an error in the system will have, but the larger the distance the farther from the true velocity, the reading will be (what you get is the average velocity through the speed trap). So the farther apart the screens are, other things equal, the higher degree of accuracy in obtaining the average velocity of the bullet. The other aspect is how much information you get and what you have to do to get it. In the early days of small chronographs, the number that you got was determined one digit at a time, and you ended up with the amount of time the bullet used to get through the trap, then you looked that time up in a table listing the distance, to get the average velocity. At the other end of the scale are machines that verify the error in measuring was minimal and automatically provide such calculations as average velocity, high-low spread, average deviation from the average velocity, and standard deviation, generally based on 95%tile, though some will also give 98%tile. The really top of the line ones also have stress sensors that are attached to the rifle and tell you relative pressures involved. The other thing to consider is on the occasion you'll be using it, will you have to set it all up, or is there a place where yu'll be setting it up and leaving it. The fellow that makes Bitterroot bullets has an underground range, so the screens setup once and left there. When I use a chronograph, I have to pickup the whole works, take it to the range, setup, shoot, reverse process. So to me, ease of setup-take down is a significant consideration. Since I really don't care what the exact velocity of the bullet is, a trap with a short distance is acceptable. I find RELATIVE velocity measures much nore valuable than ABSOLUTE numbers anyway. For shooting strings of various loads, where powder is increased by a grain, you'll see what is happening with the variable of increased powder. Or the same thing with different powders. The general goal is to get the highest velocity with the least variance between bullets with the same load. This is all a function of Relative velocity. Absolute velocity is used in determining trajectory of the bullet, and I much prefer to settle on a load, then shoot them at 300 yards to see what the actual, rather than calculated trajectory is.
So for my money and time, I use a Shooting Chrony, that I've had close to 20 years and know when it's having problems. It cost about $69 when I bought it. I've spent another few bucks replacing the shadow screens and cardboard holders. the only problem with light is when direct sunlight shines on the sensors, for which I take a roll of duct tape and place a piece so that it is inbetween the sun and the sensor, but allows the sensor the see the shadow screen. Setup,takedown can be done in a minute or so, since all that is involved is opening the gadgetm screwing in the tripod, putting on the cardboard brackets w/plastic screens, then looking through it backwards to the firing position to get it aligned. After each shot I record the velocity. then I do all the calculations on my own.
I've thought about getting one of those spendy Oehlers with the pressure reading capability; but I suspect I wouldn't be using it as much as the Chrony, just because of the setup-takedown, and the Chrony provides the data crucial to calulating everything else. I can recommend the Chrony, but several are available now that will provide the same data and are easy to operate. Just see what you'll be doing, particularly on the setup/takedown to see which one fits best.0 -
Testamonials are great to get and useful info in making a purchase. But what you really need to do is to figure out just what features and capabilities you want and will use in a chronograph. Myself all I do is compare loads to find a good accurate one which is reasonably effiecent, uniform and that delivers velosities appropriate to my design wants. Therefore all I've invested in is a Crony F1 for well under $100 and have been reasonably happy with it for the last seven or eight years. Still you need to try to figure out how you will use it and what info it is that you want to get from it. Once you have decided that the decision should be mostly made. 0
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