Limp wristing
I shot any gun I could get my hands on between the ages of 13 and 18, and enjoyed them all. Got 2nd place in trap at the youth club (when my firing pin broke...ending the 'bust all' streak). Then somewhere around 1974 I started flinching with handguns. I tried a lot of things suggested by my dad, uncles, and others without help.
Well, sometime just after 1976 (when I married), my wife bought me a 44 Mag Super Blackhawk (after a conference with my Dad). The suggestion was that "You cannot shoot this hog all day, so you better make every shot right on....if you can beat flinching on this one, you can beat them all." (BTW...this was my first intro to hearing protection...needless to say my right ear is trash and my left is poor).
Well, my 'learnin to control' from the first time they let me shoot a 12 gauge (to watch me fall on my a$$), was to 're-aquire' your site picture ASAP in case a follow up shot is needed (mostly duck,quail,snipe-rail, etc.).
Well - now to the point....
To do what was suggested, I just forgot about recoil,....put it out of my mind.... my uncle said "Just let it buck...then let it fall back and re-aquire your site picture". It may have been harsh...but it worked. Now at 50 I still don't flinch with any pistol I have. My boys will leave a cylinder empty every now and then (pay-back time) just to check me out. MY QUESTION IS ..... I hear a lot of 'bad stuff' about limp wristing and cycling on autos. I have been shooting 9mm, 40, and 45 autos with the same 'hold' technique and have never had a function failure.
Have I just been luck with the set-ups of my autos ? I shoot things ranging from a mildly tuned 1911A1 that cloverleafs to Mil-surp grade guns using surplus ammo.
What is the straightest poop y'all can give me.
If we do not hang together,
We will most certainly hang separately.
Well, sometime just after 1976 (when I married), my wife bought me a 44 Mag Super Blackhawk (after a conference with my Dad). The suggestion was that "You cannot shoot this hog all day, so you better make every shot right on....if you can beat flinching on this one, you can beat them all." (BTW...this was my first intro to hearing protection...needless to say my right ear is trash and my left is poor).
Well, my 'learnin to control' from the first time they let me shoot a 12 gauge (to watch me fall on my a$$), was to 're-aquire' your site picture ASAP in case a follow up shot is needed (mostly duck,quail,snipe-rail, etc.).
Well - now to the point....
To do what was suggested, I just forgot about recoil,....put it out of my mind.... my uncle said "Just let it buck...then let it fall back and re-aquire your site picture". It may have been harsh...but it worked. Now at 50 I still don't flinch with any pistol I have. My boys will leave a cylinder empty every now and then (pay-back time) just to check me out. MY QUESTION IS ..... I hear a lot of 'bad stuff' about limp wristing and cycling on autos. I have been shooting 9mm, 40, and 45 autos with the same 'hold' technique and have never had a function failure.
Have I just been luck with the set-ups of my autos ? I shoot things ranging from a mildly tuned 1911A1 that cloverleafs to Mil-surp grade guns using surplus ammo.
What is the straightest poop y'all can give me.
If we do not hang together,
We will most certainly hang separately.
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This applies primarily to the Glock. The original design of this gun required that the grip be held firmly in order for the frame to flex enough to ensure cycling of the action. At least, this was Glock's explanation. I look at this as a design flaw, but obviously we have grown accustomed to buying all sorts of expensive things that haven't been thoroughly de-bugged.
The guns you mention probably have steel frames, so that problem shouldn't apply to you. Still, for best accuracy, a firm grip is usually recommended.
Neal0 -
ANY RECOIL OPERATED FIREARM HAS TO HAVE SOMETHING TO RECOIL AGAINST, FIRE A BROWNING A-5 FROM THE HIP WITHOUT A FIRM GRIP AND IT'LL JAMB EVERY TIME. SAME WITH MOST AUTO PISTOLS (KEEP IN MIND THAT THE "MASS" OF THE GUN HAS A LOT TO DO WITH IT), FIRE A 1911 WITH A LIGHT LOAD AND NO WRIST RESITANCE AND IT PROBABLY WILL JAMB. MOST MIL. SURP. AMMO (AND THE GUNS THAT FIRE IT) HAVE A LOT MORE RECOIL THAN IS NESESSARY TO OPERATE THE MECHANISM SO THERE IS A BUILT IN "FUDGE FACTOR". YOUR RUGER S.B.H. ISTN'T RECOIL OPERATED AND IS A LOT MORE POWERFUL THAT MOST AUTO PISTOLS SO LETTING IT "ROLL" WITH THE RECOIL IS FINE. 0 -
Hello Mike is on the mark. "If" you would take a semi auto and hang it by two strings one on the front of gun and one on the rear of gun and then fire it most if not all would fail to function. The whole pistol would recoil as one piece. I can only speak for bulls-eye but most of us like to shoot the lightest load that is accurate and function at 6"1" and 150 LB I have to load my loads hotter than someone 5'6" and 250 Lb.When i get tired after a long day my empties don't eject as far from the gun because I am not "BACKING THE GUN UP" / limp wristing it. 0 -
THANKS FOR ALL THE FEEDBACK !!
After reading the replies I mentioned this to the rangemaster I know best last night. I told him that I was working on a 'stiffer' grip while trying to retain my accuracy. He asked if I was having failures in auto operation. I said 'No', and he said 'wait here'. He took some videos of me like he does in his training classes. Then he took a video of his best attempt to limp wrist and he showed me the difference in the photos. After looking at some in slo-mo , he says that I do not really limp-wrist that bad.
His explaination to me in showing the videos is that while I may 'let it fly', there is not excessive rotation of the piece in my hand.
That made me feel better...but only for a while. He then showed me a video of a rapid fire drill (the mans forearm was the size of my thigh). While I could never duplicate the rate of fire shown in the rapid fire drill, his advice was not to think much more about it.
(Same advice I got 30 years ago.)
Thanks again0 -
As a first time shooter, I have just a couple pieces of personal advice that helped me. My very first shot, was dead center of the three inch circle at 7 yds. My second was about 8 inches down and to the left. For the next several days, I was fighting with the "down and left" bug. Your main objective in shooting is being "surprised" with the gun goes off. After the two week training, I shot 44 on the State 48 Law Enforcement course. With sight alignment correct, and proper sight picture, the only thing left is to not flinch or "limp-wrist" it. With a slow, steady trigger pull, just don't anticipate it. I'm far from being an expert like alot of people on this forum, but after never shooting and doing so pretty poorly, to coming in 4th in Class Top Gun, what they teach works. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Levell0rd
As a first time shooter, I have just a couple pieces of personal advice that helped me. My very first shot, was dead center of the three inch circle at 7 yds. My second was about 8 inches down and to the left. For the next several days, I was fighting with the "down and left" bug. Your main objective in shooting is being "surprised" with the gun goes off. After the two week training, I shot 44 on the State 48 Law Enforcement course. With sight alignment correct, and proper sight picture, the only thing left is to not flinch or "limp-wrist" it. With a slow, steady trigger pull, just don't anticipate it. I'm far from being an expert like alot of people on this forum, but after never shooting and doing so pretty poorly, to coming in 4th in Class Top Gun, what they teach works.
great point about the anticipation aspect. I find I shoot more accurate if I shoot faster, I forget the the S&W guys name that hase the theory of shoot before the flinch. I find I can keep tight groups if I speed up.
Regards,
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