Korean Surplus, .30-06
Anyone know anything about this stuff? I ran onto some pretty cheap (about 30 cents apiece) loaded in clips for use in the M-1. It's 150gr FMJ with Century AM1275 on the label sticker, and K A E 7 on the cartridge ends.
I believe it's corrosive primed, but I'm not 100% sure. The bandoliers had dates from the 60s on them, not that that means anything.
Any problem with using corrosive ammo in a classic rifle if it's cleaned afterward?
I believe it's corrosive primed, but I'm not 100% sure. The bandoliers had dates from the 60s on them, not that that means anything.
Any problem with using corrosive ammo in a classic rifle if it's cleaned afterward?
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It's nasty corrosive, but it is fairly accurate, and it all goes bang. I use it in my Garand, but I clean it as soon as I'm done. I made the mistake "once", of letting it sit two days before I cleaned it.[B)] 0 -
Some lots of Korean milsurp are bad; as in, the rifle will experience catastrophic failure. Unable to find a record of the lot numbers.
Neal0 -
Could the cases be reloaded with non-corrosive Berdan primers if a guy had the right tools? 0 -
quote:Originally posted by nmyers
Some lots of Korean milsurp are bad; as in, the rifle will experience catastrophic failure. Unable to find a record of the lot numbers.
Neal
The Korean "KA" headstamped '06 ammo is pretty good quality but it is corrosive; no biggie if you clean the rifle appropriately. That includes the gas system on an M1.
Neal is correct about some Korean '06 lot numbers experiencing catastrophic failures. But all bad lot numbers were in batches headstamped "PS". Korean PS is the non-corrosive stuff.0 -
quote:The Korean "KA" headstamped '06 ammo is pretty good quality but it is corrosive; no biggie if you clean the rifle appropriately.
I'm just using Hoppes #9 as the main bore cleaner, followed up with dry patches and a light oiling, but I've heard to use Windex or water.0 -
The KA is decent stuff. It is in fact corrosive. Regarding that, here is my standard answer on the subject:
Water, water, water! NOT ammonia or Windex! Or for that matter, not Hoppes.
Corrosive primers contain a salt compound. Ever leave a shaker of salt on the kitchen table in a humid environment? It gets clogged and water condenses on the top. Same thing happens in your rifle bore eventually causing pitting and rusting if left uncleaned.
Salt is a very neutral compound. Very stable and non-reactive, though it does retain water fairly well (hygroscopic). That being the case, it CANNOT be NEUTRALIZED (as if it were and acid or base) it can ONLY be dissolved and therefore washed away. So HOT WATER with a little soap perhaps is best. Windex and ammonia only work as they have water in them. Hoppes works because it contains about 8% water. The drawbacks to these though are- ammonia and windex can harm gun finishes; they have enough water in them to do the job but why risk it? Hoppes worries me as it has so little water in it. So pour a pint or two of water down the bore, wipe off the bolt face, and dry. If a semi auto, do the same to the gas system. Clean as normal, then oil and you are done.
What DOES Windex or Ammonia do? Well they are useful for removing copper fouling so if you want to use them go for it, but otherwise, it is hardly necessary to play with foul smelling compounds that can mess up wood and perhaps metal finishes when water works fine.
Finally, if your water is hot it is both more effective at dissolving the salts and it flash dries.
One other option is to use USGI WW2 military bore cleaner- it was made to clean corrosive primers, but it's mainly water soluble oil and water, nothing fancy.0 -
Thanks for the replies - helpful. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by jonk
The KA is decent stuff. It is in fact corrosive. Regarding that, here is my standard answer on the subject:
Water, water, water! NOT ammonia or Windex! Or for that matter, not Hoppes.
Corrosive primers contain a salt compound. Ever leave a shaker of salt on the kitchen table in a humid environment? It gets clogged and water condenses on the top. Same thing happens in your rifle bore eventually causing pitting and rusting if left uncleaned.
Salt is a very neutral compound. Very stable and non-reactive, though it does retain water fairly well (hygroscopic). That being the case, it CANNOT be NEUTRALIZED (as if it were and acid or base) it can ONLY be dissolved and therefore washed away. So HOT WATER with a little soap perhaps is best. Windex and ammonia only work as they have water in them. Hoppes works because it contains about 8% water. The drawbacks to these though are- ammonia and windex can harm gun finishes; they have enough water in them to do the job but why risk it? Hoppes worries me as it has so little water in it. Pour a pint or two down the bore, wipe off the bolt face, and dry. If a semi auto, do the same to the gas system. Clean as normal, then oil and you are done.
What DOES Windex or Ammonia do? Well they are useful for removing copper fouling so if you want to use them go for it, but otherwise, it is hardly necessary to play with foul smelling compounds that can mess up wood and perhaps metal finishes when water works fine.
Finally, if your water is hot it is both more effective at dissolving the salts and it flash dries.
One other option is to use USGI WW2 military bore cleaner- it was made to clean corrosive primers, but it's mainly water soluble oil and water, nothing fancy.
Best explaination I have read yet! Excellent.0 -
windex does work well for this but just because it is WATER based. just make sure the barrel and parts are dried and well oiled afterwards. 0
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