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Electroless nickel Plating

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8 comments

  • riflemike
    How difficult is it to remove? I have a remington rand frame that someone had this done to. Also what would a remington rand frame possibly be valued at Its very good shape no pitting rust etc.
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  • rufe-snow
    Have it vapor blasted with plastic beads in a bead blasting machine. This won't do an physical damage to the frame. It can then be reparked, to duplicate it's original war time finish. As long as it wasn't heavily buffed/polished prior to the nickel plating, it can be restored very close to original.
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  • riflemike
    It has a WWII Colt slide Did they come in this config. or is this a slide someone could have added
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  • Bill DeShivs
    EN should be stripped chemically. Any plater can remove the nickel. Both Brownell's and Caswell plating supply sell nickel stripper.
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  • perry shooter
    Hello if the Private in the arms room was given the task of cleaning all the NCO's and Officer's pistols sometimes they would take them all down at same time and then put back together with no regards to what slide went on what frame . Also most all pistols were rebuilt by the military between the time they were made Pre 1945 and the time they were swiped from the military or sold through the DCM pre 1968 gun control act. I suspect if you look on the frame you may see rebuilders marks. They took good parts from a number of guns and built guns with them scraping the worn parts
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  • nmyers
    Value depends upon what it looks like; I'm guessing $200-300.

    But, there are a couple of gunsmiths who have skill in stripping guns such as yours, & parkerizing them so that they look like arsenal rebuilds. Talk to "chuckindenver" at Warpath Vintage, molinenorski@msn.com .

    Neal
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  • Spartacus
    just be careful if you use a chemical stripper. most are very caustic/alkali solutions, some are nitric acid and some contain cyanide! there used to be a product calle B-9 from a company called metal-x that was non caustic and no cyanide. it's for use on steel base material only, will chew up brass or copper substrates. Don't know if it's still available. need to google it.
    I don't like chemical strippers (just a personal preference) so i just use 90 grit aliminum oxide with the sandblaster. does a nice job and no damage to the part, as long as you don't get carried away. also leaves a nice "tooth" for refinishing.
    this frame was nickel before i blasted it (the slide was blue and only "roughed up" for refinish)
    dscf0316u.jpg
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  • SP45
    I haven't seen a 1911 of any make except maybe Llama that sells for under 600 or 500, as long as it goes bang.
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