Marlin 60
I have a model 60 with a gold trigger. What is the significance of this? Is a "special model" or limited edition? I've never seen another one like it.
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Have a Marlin 60 that doesn't fire second bullet. It will feed 1st bullet into chamber and fire, eject and properly feed 2nd bullet into chamber. However it will not fire second bullet. The firing pin leaves a light indention on the second bullet. This indention is ligher than indention on first bullet which fired. Have checked to insure bolt is fully closing and disassemlbled, and thorghly cleaned and scrubbed all parts. It continues not to fire second bullet. If I place not fired 2nds bullet as 1st bullet in magazine it will fire, but will not fire second bullet. Any help appreciated. 0 -
The first shot problem is most likely because you are riding the bolt forward .JUST jerk the bolt back and turn loose .The bolt need to cycle as fast as when the fired case recoil cycles the bolt if you hold the bolt back and try to let it work slowly it will jam. also depends on age of your marlin some would hold back and others will not. How far does the plastic piece "FOLLOWER" stick out of the empty tube mouth 0 -
Have the same rifle. Never had a problem with the first round, so i tried to duplicate your problem, was able to do it by easing the bolt foward. As sugested pull the bolt back and let snap foward. The bolt on mine does not lock back after the last round or lock back at all. I've got a flag I use to lock the bolt open while at a range. 0 -
Can't add to the bit about riding the bolt during loading. That probably is the explanation for the first round misfeed.
In term of locking the bolt halfway open on an empty mag, that is a relatively recent design modification that wasn't introduced until the mid 1980s.
Older guns won't do it and I don't think its easy to modify them to get them to do it.
For what its worth the Marlin model 60 was actually introduced in 1960 (hence the name), so your gun is a first year of issue gun.
IIRC, you can MANUALLY lock the bolt back by pulling the bolt all the way back, then pushing in on it towards the receiver.0 -
Thamks for all the good advice - I'll check it out when I get home tonight.
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Give it a good cleaning with brake cleaner with the action out of the stock and re-lube. These rifles if real dirty will get finicky 0 -
Might give it a good cleaning. Alot of 22's out there have never been cleaned.
Also be carefull when disassembling & re-assembling it. Their is a tiny spring that is really easy to kink when putting it back together.0 -
Just want to thank everybody for your input/advice. It works flawlessly, we're shooting 300+/- rounds each time we go to the range and never have a miss-feed or jam; junt makiung sure we thoroughly clean it after each trip.
I'm now shooting "peace signs" in targets at 50 yds!
Do any of you know if I could safely shoot CCI Stingers (hypervelocity) or tracers without damaging it? It is 50 years old and all original.
Thx.0 -
try the stingers. I have found on some of the old 22's they were set up for the standard velocity ammo in the days before "hyper" velocity stuff. You may need a new replacement recoil spring. 0 -
I have a old model 60 carbine that started working improperly. It was always old reliable. I keep it out in my shop. It hadn't been cleaned in years. I took it apart & cleaned it good & works fine again like the old reliable it always was. A neglected firearm is a bad thing. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by lmhabr
Just want to thank everybody for your input/advice. It works flawlessly, we're shooting 300+/- rounds each time we go to the range and never have a miss-feed or jam; junt makiung sure we thoroughly clean it after each trip.
I'm now shooting "peace signs" in targets at 50 yds!
Do any of you know if I could safely shoot CCI Stingers (hypervelocity) or tracers without damaging it? It is 50 years old and all original.
Thx.
Stingers work by using a shorter (and lighter) than normal bullet and a slightly longer case to cram in more powder. The point is, while the velocity of the round is high, the lighter bullet means that the momentum of the round (which is what contributes to recoil) isn't really all that much higher. So yes, while you probably are working the gun harder with Stingers, Marlin guns are actually pretty tough, and I don't think the stress on the action is really a huge amount more.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. Marlin 60s are inexpensive and literally over 10 million guns have been manufactured. The guns are actually fairly tough and hold up well to thousands of rounds shot. Even assuming Stingers add a little wear and tear to your gun, the Marlins should be able to handle it. I suspect you'd have to put through at least multiple thousands of rounds of Stingers (in total costing multiple times the value of the gun itself) before you noticed a problem (if ever).
A box or two here or there? I wouldn't worry about it.
By the way, the nicest thing about the older Marlin 60s is that they have longer magazines than the newer ones, offering higher capacity. (Its debatable whether the extra capacity trade-off is worth not having a last shot bolt hold open).
In terms of tracer ammo, I don't think you'd have a problem. The rounds themselves are not high-powered and won't mechanically harm your gun. The tracer compound itself may be corrosive and not good for your barrel, BUT at least in theory it shouldn't really start to burn or shed until the bullets are out of your barrel.
In GENERAL, you should avoid cleaning .22s too much, but in the case of tracer ammo, I'd say cleaning after shooting is probably a good idea.
Personally, I'd do a wet-patch, 1-2 passes with wet BRASS .22 brush, then second wet-patch, then dry patch (all breech to bore) and you should be good to go.
Edit: By the way, some of these Marlin 60s will *ONLY* function reliably with high-velocity ammo, again, meaning Stingers are probably fine.0
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