Over-travel stop adjustment on Kimber.
Greetings all, and Merry Cristmas!
I own a Kimber Ultra CDP. It shows a small hole on it's trigger face which gives access to an Allen screw. I believe this is called an over-travel stop.
How is it adjusted?
The trigger travels about 1/8 (or so) of an inch before engaging the sear. Is it properly set, or can I further adjust it as to have no travel at all?
Thanks for your insight.
I own a Kimber Ultra CDP. It shows a small hole on it's trigger face which gives access to an Allen screw. I believe this is called an over-travel stop.
How is it adjusted?
The trigger travels about 1/8 (or so) of an inch before engaging the sear. Is it properly set, or can I further adjust it as to have no travel at all?
Thanks for your insight.
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The overtravel stop screw has nothing to do with trigger takeup before sear contact, it limits movement of the trigger after the sear moves enough to drop the hammer. You can adjust it to the maximum by screwing it in until the hammer will not fall, then backing it out until it just will, then backing out at least a quarter turn more for clearance.
Pretravel or takeup before the trigger engages the sear is fixed by dimensions of frame and trigger. It can only be adjusted by replacing the trigger with one having an adjustment or by modification. You need SOME takeup so that the sear can be sure to reengage after the previous shot, although it doesn't need to be an eighth of an inch.0 -
All three of my Kimbers have about the same take-up as yours.
Hawk told it right, you need that take-up for the trigger reset. Anything less might be a problem for the disconnector and sear.0 -
Hawk has it.
Its called an "overtravel" stop because its supposed to stop the movement of the trigger AFTER the trigger has done its job and the sear has released.
Eliminating overtravel provides a nice crisp "end" to the trigger pull, and helps prevent you from jerking the gun with the trigger. Usually match-type guns will have this feature, though any gun with a good high-quality trigger might.
You want to adjust this (ideally) so that the trigger moves only a little bit after the sear is released and the gun goes off. In general, the less it moves after the gun goes off the better, though you will need SOME aftertravel motion to ensure that the gun goes off reliably every time and can reset properly.
What you seem to be concerned about is more appropriately called "pre-travel", "slack" or "takeup". . .its how much the trigger moves BEFORE it starts releasing the sear.
I wouldn't worry about that at all, particularly if its only about 1/8" (which is actually fairly little).
Not only do you need a little bit of pre-travel for the gun to mechanically function, but personally I think its psychologically nice to have a teensy bit of free/light movement before the trigger starts to engage the sear. (Though some don't like this).
That way you know your finger is in the right place, and correctly applying pressure to the trigger. It also gives you a bit to feel as if you are "backing-off" should you decide not to actually fire.0 -
All repliers are valid however one other thing to watch out for is If the hammer hooks and sear has been worked for a light trigger pull and you adjust the overtravel too far it will quickly ruin the trigger pull and become UNSAFE You need to take an UNLOADED pistol and WITH ONE HAND holding the hammer spur pull the trigger the hammer needs to clear the hammer hooks "full cock" but it SHOULD not bump the half cock notch as the hammer swings through it's arc . if it bumps the half cock notch it will round off the sear nose and then you may have unintended discharge.[xx(][V] 0
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