HISTORY AND VALUE
I cannot find any reference to my double barreled shot gun in either GunBroker files or in the Blue Book of gun values. I would like to know more about it and some idea of its value. What I have is:
BAYARD, 12 Ga., Double barrel, with external hammers that strike firing pins, both barrels are fluid steel and not "Twist" metal, it has stamped into the metal a pat. date of 1892, but I think it was actually produced later, modern 12 Ga. shells fit it OK although I do not trust firing it at this time, I cannot find a serial number on it and the choke information is not noted in a manner that I can make sense out of. I am sure that I have not given all of the necessary helpful information about this gun, so feel free to ask for more information. Thank you,
grabiron (kerry)
BAYARD, 12 Ga., Double barrel, with external hammers that strike firing pins, both barrels are fluid steel and not "Twist" metal, it has stamped into the metal a pat. date of 1892, but I think it was actually produced later, modern 12 Ga. shells fit it OK although I do not trust firing it at this time, I cannot find a serial number on it and the choke information is not noted in a manner that I can make sense out of. I am sure that I have not given all of the necessary helpful information about this gun, so feel free to ask for more information. Thank you,
grabiron (kerry)
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pics would help a lot--definately do not fire it without at least a competent gunsmiths ok, and eventhen I probably wouldn't. There should be some sort of markings somewhere on the gun=check under the forearm and the watertable for markings. If you do a search on yahoo or google you might find some info on Bayard. I was able to find they were made in Belgium and were a trade name for Henri Pieper around the turn of the century. Value depends on condition and for that we need pics-check the stickies on how to do that. There's not a ton of collector interest in Belgian shotguns so unless yours is in great condition they can bring $50 for a beater wallhanger to $300 and up for one in perfect condition. 0 -
Bayard was a Trade Name used by a large Belgian firearms manufacturer, named Anciens Etablissements Pieper. From your description it was probably manufactured prior to the German invasion and occupation of 1914.
Unless it factory original, and in at least very good to excellent cosmetic condition not likely to have much collector demand/value.
Even with the steel barrels most folks regard the old Belgian, (100 year old? ), hammerguns as questionable with modern loads. Only value depending on cosmetics, would be as conversation pieces or decorators.0 -
Please don't get your feelings hurt but shotguns like yours have generally been referred to as "an ABC shotgun", meaning "Another Belgian Clunker". Belgium exported hundreds of thousands, and maybe millions, of utility shotguns to the US market prior to 1914 and very few are considered to be collectible. Although your gun has fluid steel barrels, it was made to the pressure tolerances of early 20th century loads. I wouldn't consider firing it but would relegate it to a respectable place on the wall. It served its time and most likely provided many delectable duck dinners for a farmer and his family. 0 -
Hello,
John here. I just purchased a Marlin Glenfield MOD.40 in .22L.R. It has furniture issues as with some blueing to do but, if I can get "Tricks Of The Trade" from any of you all I think my Grandson will have a dandy first Rifle.
It has some really nice etching work on it and the original hand checkering from back in the day looks fantastic and does its job with grip but, it is 'cracked' at a rough 45% angle wher the metal meets up with the Buttstock--even the Buttstock has that outstanding hand checkering wood tooling and I want to fix it right. They say ASK THE EXPERTS for nothing but a good reason. I will be appreciating any and all information on the issue of Blueing her up correctly and if any of you all have any Tricks Of The Trade on fixing the furniture issue please, please, please help an old man out, will ya. I wish each and every one of you all a Merry, Merry Christmas and a Happy and SAFE New Year. I most certainly wish yun's better luck on your taxes. grabiron if you happen to read this please -- if you have the time--will you lead me in the right direction with this project? What is the best Blue to use in this case as it is --a spot here and a spot there I was thinking of the Quick Blue type if you have any suggestions on a good one to use, I thank you for your time and efforts in any and all helpful advise/product suggestion's in getting this rifle functioning.
*GOD BLESS AMERICA*0 -
quote:Originally posted by Johnperkins
Hello,
John here. I just purchased a Marlin Glenfield MOD.40 in .22L.R. It has furniture issues as with some blueing to do but, if I can get "Tricks Of The Trade" from any of you all I think my Grandson will have a dandy first Rifle.
It has some really nice etching work on it and the original hand checkering from back in the day looks fantastic and does its job with grip but, it is 'cracked' at a rough 45% angle wher the metal meets up with the Buttstock--even the Buttstock has that outstanding hand checkering wood tooling and I want to fix it right. They say ASK THE EXPERTS for nothing but a good reason. I will be appreciating any and all information on the issue of Blueing her up correctly and if any of you all have any Tricks Of The Trade on fixing the furniture issue please, please, please help an old man out, will ya. I wish each and every one of you all a Merry, Merry Christmas and a Happy and SAFE New Year. I most certainly wish yun's better luck on your taxes. grabiron if you happen to read this please -- if you have the time--will you lead me in the right direction with this project? What is the best Blue to use in this case as it is --a spot here and a spot there I was thinking of the Quick Blue type if you have any suggestions on a good one to use, I thank you for your time and efforts in any and all helpful advise/product suggestion's in getting this rifle functioning.
*GOD BLESS AMERICA*
Hi, John,
Welcome to the forums but asking an irrelevant question in another member's thread is considered "hijacking" as threads get locked after 10 replies. I respectfully suggest you start a new thread regarding your Marlin.0
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