Sig P226 reassembly
I have really messed up my 226. After a day at the range, I was cleaning it, and noticed alot of fouling around the takedown lever area. So, being ignorant, I decided to take out the takedown lever and the block just above the trigger. Dumb mistake!! I am now having a very difficult time getting it back together. The other problem is the hammer is cocked, and that little block thing is stuck in place and will not budge. Should I send it back to Sig, or do you guys have any suggestions?[?][?][?]
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Well, it is a b***h to get back in but it can be done.
First, decock the hammer. There should be a long thin piece of metal that looks like a spring, this goes in the block. There is a hole in the block and a small piece sticking off the end of the spring that goes in this hole.
There is a pin that looks to have a screw head but it is not threaded, just behind the take down lever. This has some flats milled into it and must be turned horizontal so that the flats match the pieces of the block when it goes in. This will take some time, just stay with it. You may need to put the block in place and turn the pin with a screwdriver until you feel it kinda fall in place. All the while holding the spring in place.
This is harder to explain than it is to do so good luck.
Once you get the block back in then push your take down lever in and when it comes into contact with the spring then turn it while pushing in on it and it will snap into place.
Hope this helps.
Bode0 -
Bode's description of what needs to be done is correct and so is his statement that it's easier done than to explain.
You're okay though, don't panic. Removal and installation of the locking block is something you need to learn how to do anyhow because it makes cleaning of SIG's much easier.
First, hit the lever and decock the hammer. You'll now be able to remove the locking block.
Lay the locking block on your bench and place the spring in it's correct orientation. This is the slide catch lever spring, but it also serves as the takedown lever spring.
Hold the pistol with the serial number side down and insert the trigger pin, then rotate it to where those machined flat areas are oriented downward within the frame. That slot in it's non-serial side end is there to aid in it's orientation and should be set perfectly parallel with the frame rails. A fingernail stands less chance of marring it's finish than a screwdriver.
Now place your thumb against the slotted end of this pin and a finger of the same hand against the other. This serves to both keep this pin from rotating out of orientation and to keep it perfectly aligned laterally within the frame. Correct rotational and side to side alignment of the trigger pin are required.
Keeping the pistol on it's side, insert that locking block/slide catch lever spring assembly downward and rearward so it's slot rides over the trigger pin. During this step your slide catch lever spring should stay in the position where you placed it in the beginning - which is why you're working with the pistol serial side down.
The key is the trigger pin's orientation/alignment. When it's correct you'll find that the locking block sldes in effortlessly - no force at all required.
The final step is to insert the takedown lever until it's stopped by the slide catch lever spring, then rotate as you push inward - almost as if you're screwing it into the frame.
None of this is as complicated or difficult as it sounds. It's just a matter of learning proper technique.0 -
Ok, I tried all the above, but the hammer will not fall. I have tried the decocker, the trigger and taking the hammer spring off, nothing has worked! I think I may have to send it back to Sig. 0 -
Don't you have a local gunsmith??? Sending it back to Sig is going to cost you alot in shipping. There must be a gunsmith around somewhere unless you live out in the middle of nowhere! 0 -
If you've managed to remove the main spring, just stick a fingertip through the hole in the serial number side of the frame, move the sear out of engagement with the hammer and rotate it foward. 0 -
The owner turned the pistol over to me to repair.
I was able to tap the trigger forward and once that released the block came out I found that the trigger pin was turned over 180 degrees. Once that was corrected the pistol went back togeter no problems. Elmer0 -
Great, I like a happy ending![:)] 0 -
Thanks Chris for saving me lots of money. Sig wanted $55 for one way shipping and $60 just to look at my pistol. The rep stated that that was an inspection fee, and that actual work would cost by the hour at their rate whatever that means. I did turn it over to Elmer, I see that he has corrected the problem for me. Many thanks to you!! 0 -
Glad it worked out! The 226 is a great pistol and should give you many years of trouble free service! 0 -
Another Gun Broker happy ending over on the Experts Forum. Thanks to all who lent a hand because this is what our little piece of the rock is all about. 0
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