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Remington 03-A3

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8 comments

  • jonesbf
    I acquired a Remington 03-A3 and can't get the bolt handle to lock down once the bolt is closed. It seems to be lined up but is hitting something. I need an expert. Also how do you remove the bolt out of one of these? Thanks
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  • nmyers
    I think of "ancient" as dating to biblical times, not WW2, which is when your rifle was made. The C-SAA is an arsenal rebuild stamp, & the firing proof P was stamped when it was first made, & every time it was arsenal rebuilt.

    As to value, you will need to post photos; a sticky near the top of the first forum page explains how. You will also need to measure the bore at the muzzle with a gauge, or, at the least, describe the condition of the bore.

    Neal
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  • jonesbf
    Here are a few of the pics I have.
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/Guns 016.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/Guns 019.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/Guns 020.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/Guns 021.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/Guns 023.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/Guns 024.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/Guns 025.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/Guns 029.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/Guns 031.jpg[/img]
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  • nmyers
    Photos are a little help, but not much. The only additional thing I can tell is that the stock is broken. [V]

    Photos have to be CLOSE. Note in these photos you can read the markings on the parts:

    1903A4_f.jpg
    1903A4_g.jpg

    You also failed to provide additional information on the bore. With what we have, I estimate the value to be $300-400.

    Neal
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  • jonesbf
    I don't have a way to measure the bore, sorry. I'm adding some pictures of the bore at the end of the barrel. I've taken more close ups. I didn't even notice the broken stock :S.
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/o3a3 001.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/o3a3 002.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/o3a3 003.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/o3a3 004.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/o3a3 005.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/o3a3 006.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/o3a3 007.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/o3a3 008.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/o3a3 009.jpg[/img]
    [img]http://bfjstudio.com/temp/03a3/o3a3 011.jpg[/img]
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  • Herschel
    The metal on your rifle looks much better than the wood. As is, I think it would bring $400 or so as these are getting to be in demand by collectors. A few suggestions. Don't use dry steel wool or other abrasive on the metal. Clean that corrosion from the bore using Hoppe's or other powder solvent that will remove copper fouling. Use a patch soaked in solvent followed by a proper sized nylon brush. Insert the cleaning rod from the breach end. If "Bubba" suggests drilling and taping the metal to mount a scope tell him to buzz off. You have a decent rifle that is well worth restoring and any modifications to the metal will cut the value. Replacement stocks can be found if you want to restore it. There is no way to know when that sling was put on the rifle. It is certainly not what was put on the rifle when it was new as it has been through rebuild but the sling is period correct. It should be cleaned with saddle soap and water followed by a good leather preservative such as Pecards Antique Leather Dressing. Don't use Neats Foot Oil. The sling alone could bring $50 or so.
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  • Old hickory
    I paid $600 for one like that in November(Illinois). 3 years ago I could have had it for $300 . I did have a good friend who knows his Springfields inspect it for authenticity and the barrel which he rated at 9. Things have sure changed on even mediocre Springfields.
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  • Ambrose
    Most military slings are put on wrong, yours included, although yours is closer than most. It's a pet peeve of mine! If you look at picture #1, the forward part of the sling (the loop) should be flipped so the hook does not face the stock. You will, of course, have to dissassemble the sling to do this. You're going to do this anyway to clean and recondition it as Herschel suggests. The keepers need to be on opposite ends of the loop--one near the forward sling swivel and one near the ring of the other, shorter piece of the sling (the tail). With the rifle standing upright in a rack and the sling tight, both hooks should be visible, one above the other, near the upper end of the sling assenbly.
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