Linseed oil? M1 stock
I recently steamed an M1 stock and got a lot of dents out of it. I use raw linseed oil on my Crick levels for preservation and I am thinking that it would be good for this M1. What is your take?
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Standard USGI finish was Boiled Linseed Oil or or Tung Oil. Which one you use is based on personal choice, but I prefer BLO. 0 -
Thanks, Mark.
I could have just asked here![:o)]0 -
But, if you oil the wood, do it because you like the appearance, not because it needs "preservation". Gun stocks don't need any preservative; at least, that's what the curators at the Springfield Armory National Museum tell me.
Neal0 -
quote:Originally posted by nmyers
But, if you oil the wood, do it because you like the appearance, not because it needs "preservation". Gun stocks don't need any preservative; at least, that's what the curators at the Springfield Armory National Museum tell me.
Neal
Well, if you're leaving them indoors in a temperature and humidity controlled environment (eg like a museum display case or storage area), they shouldn't need any preservative.
If you're going to take them outside, inside, drag through mud, rain, snow, sand, and various temperature changes, a little extra protection in the way of an exterior finish can't hurt!
I've always thought that standard finish on GI wood stocks was boiled linseed oil. I think that would make a good choice for a replacement finish, if necessary.0 -
Looks like Mark gets to tell a story [:)]
During the inter war years and into early WWII the standard finish was China wood Oil, usually called Tung Oil, and coming from the Tung tree which grows in China, Burma and other parts of SE Asia. When the war started it became difficult to impossible to import the seeds or oil into the United States and supplies of the oil fell rapidly due to the increase in small arms production. The Tung tree also grows in Florida but supplies were not sufficient so boiled Linseed oil took the place of Tung oil as a stock finish during the early part of WWII. Linseed oil is obtained from Flax seeds and since Flax was grown extensively in the eastern United States and parts of Canada it made for a suitable substitute for Tung Oil.0 -
a note on boiled linseed oil (tung oil to), apply with your fingers and rub it in well (several times, wear latex gloves if your 'squeemish'[:D]). after a good 'rubbing' take a dry cloth or paper toil and wipe off as much as you can. let set a day or two and repeat untill you have the finish you want. if you leave a heavey coat on the stock, drying time will be 'years'. 0 -
Thanks for that Mark, and Mike I was under the assumption that BLO never really dried? 0 -
I have used boiled linseed oil on a 1903 Springfield after a light sanding and it worked very well. 0 -
Just to continue the story: The Army had experimented with Linseed oil long before the start of WWII but found that it tended to smoke when rifles became heated during rapid fire and this lead the the use of Tung Oil. When Tung Oil became more difficult to obtain the switch went back to Linseed Oil but rather than raw Linseed oil, boiled Linseed oil was used since it dried faster and a chemical of some kind was added to help prevent the smoking problems. M1 stocks came out of the shaping machines at a rate of 3-4 stocks per minute for each several machines in operation on the floor and the cost to Uncle Sam was about $1.50 for each stock. After final sanding the stocks were hung on an overhead carousel, dipped into an oil bath for 60 seconds and then continued on their way until they were taken off the carousel, place upright in racks and allowed to dry for 48-72 hours. Drying times depended a lot on the climate and varied by season or weather conditions. 0 -
Mark, this type of info makes it worth logging in everyday. I never knew this triva and the fact that tung oil was used also and not just Linseed oil. 0
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